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Ken Black Memorial Dome
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Blackheart T 
Blackjack S 
Blackout T 
Chicken Mechanics T 
Fryer Flyers T 
Holiday In The Sun T 
Lewis Black  T 
My Friends Treat Me Like a Mushroom T 
Pacific Avenue Dorm T 
Pitch Black T 
Poultry Pilots T 

Blackout 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Todd Swain, Rick Guerrieri and Dave Evans, October 1989
Page Views: 171
Submitted By: Adam Stackhouse on May 25, 2007

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BETA PHOTO: Blackout route line and bolts.

Description 

This along with Blackheart are located on the nice looking "3-tiered" face on the far left side of the Ken Black formation. Easily visible from the road. This is the righthand line passing a couple of bolts to a two bolt anchor/rap


Protection 

Couple of cams to go with the bolts.



Photos of Blackout Slideshow Add Photo
Blackout, 5.11a
BETA PHOTO: Blackout, 5.11a
Comments on Blackout Add Comment
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By C Miller
Administrator
May 25, 2007
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b PG13

Decent enough climbing, but nothing special. The pro seemed adequate and doesn't merit an R rating, and the crux is lower than indicated on the beta photo.

By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
May 21, 2014
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c R

Hard, grainy, and sequential moves around the first bolt. The R rating probably comes from the opportunity to place some really small gear in an overlap, right about the height you could deck from. There is pro available in the horizontal break (1.5" cam and a big nut?) before the second bolt. In-obvious
moves at the second bolt are pretty hard and grainy. Place some more pro in the next horizontal (1" - 2") and then share the anchor with Blackheart. I TR'd it.

Note: This route has only two bolts, not 3 as shown in the old Stackhouse beta photo.

By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
May 25, 2014

Sorry about the topo inaccuracies. I usually, at a minimum, get the bolts right. I'll go back and edit this one. Thanks Russ