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West Ridge - part E - top to Xanadu
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Ministry of Fear 
Muscular Dystrophy 
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Whiplash 

Blackout 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 160'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: J. and R. Rossiter, 1986
Page Views: 528
Submitted By: S. Kimball on Oct 16, 2002
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Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Start from the tree 30' above Muscular Dystrophy

P1. Up the right hand of 2 dihedrals a right-facing, thin corner with textbook but difficult to see, RP protection, 5.10-. Continue around a pigeon shit-coated, handcrack and stem up and right over a small roof (5.10-) with a good hand crack and edges. Belay 15' higher, [on top of] a flake wedged between 2 thin cracks, tiny stance but excellent stopper/TCU anchors.

P2. 5.7 ground leads to a [loose V] slot. Finish with a short but steep 5.9 hand and finger crack in a right-facing dihedral.

Walk off. Quite enjoyable despite some looseness and pigeon poo.


Protection 

Set of RPs. Standard rack to 3".



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By david goldstein
Jul 28, 2003

Most people will consider the lower corner to be S.

By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 12, 2004

I agree with David. I remember the lower dihedral being unprotected, although it's not the crux. Still, it's probably 5.9 and a bad place to fall. I thought Byobu had been lost in Rossiter's guide (it is not in the index) until I noticed it had been renamed.

By Brian Milhaupt
From: Golden, CO
Nov 7, 2004
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

I didn't think this warranted an "S" rating. It protects pretty well with rp's. The real danger is the loose upper section which brings the two star climbing down a notch.

By Shane Z
From: Colorado
Mar 21, 2005

Having ditched the RPs and not having the heuvos to lead the right dihedral I chose to start out on the left dihedral then move right at the 'split' of the dihedrals then onto the pigeon crap crack which was fun. I did not lead the last pitch, but, from what I saw, looked scary and challenging.

By Be Esperanza
From: Asheville, NC
Oct 12, 2006

I thought the climbing in the dihedral was a little dirty but still fun. The pigeon crack was horrible, which is too bad, because otherwise it would have been fun. The second pitch was a choss pile, with one decent move. I would not do this route again.

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Mar 4, 2012

Still full of bird poo as of today.