|West Ridge - part E - top to Xanadu
Start from the tree 30' above Muscular Dystrophy
P1. Up the right hand of 2 dihedrals a right-facing, thin corner with textbook but difficult to see, RP protection, 5.10-. Continue around a pigeon shit-coated, handcrack and stem up and right over a small roof (5.10-) with a good hand crack and edges. Belay 15' higher, [on top of] a flake wedged between 2 thin cracks, tiny stance but excellent stopper/TCU anchors.
P2. 5.7 ground leads to a [loose V] slot. Finish with a short but steep 5.9 hand and finger crack in a right-facing dihedral.
Walk off. Quite enjoyable despite some looseness and pigeon poo.
Set of RPs. Standard rack to 3".
|By david goldstein|
Jul 28, 2003
Most people will consider the lower corner to be S.
|By George Bell|
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 12, 2004
I agree with David. I remember the lower dihedral being unprotected, although it's not the crux. Still, it's probably 5.9 and a bad place to fall. I thought Byobu had been lost in Rossiter's guide (it is not in the index) until I noticed it had been renamed.
|By Brian Milhaupt|
From: Golden, CO
Nov 7, 2004
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
I didn't think this warranted an "S" rating. It protects pretty well with rp's. The real danger is the loose upper section which brings the two star climbing down a notch.
|By Shane Zentner|
Mar 21, 2005
Having ditched the RPs and not having the heuvos to lead the right dihedral I chose to start out on the left dihedral then move right at the 'split' of the dihedrals then onto the pigeon crap crack which was fun. I did not lead the last pitch, but, from what I saw, looked scary and challenging.
|By Be Esperanza|
From: Asheville, NC
Oct 12, 2006
I thought the climbing in the dihedral was a little dirty but still fun. The pigeon crack was horrible, which is too bad, because otherwise it would have been fun. The second pitch was a choss pile, with one decent move. I would not do this route again.
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Mar 4, 2012
Still full of bird poo as of today.