Another of the great 5.10s at Cactus. Start two routes left of a huge corner (Cellulite District), following a small, right-facing corner for a few feet to a ledge. Back left to a big flake and an easy runout to a stance under a crimpy wall. Pick your way to the top past many bolts on excellent sharp rock.
I had been passing this up for a while because of the rather bland way it looked from the ground but I just got off it today and it's all it's claimed to be! A MUST do!!Cruxy from the get-go but don't worry about the sharp factor,it's not bad at all, call it "enhanced friction" on the continous series of fantastic crimps and glory pockets! One of the best 10s at Shelf!!
Great route! After the fun flakes on the lower part and a few more pumpy moves there is a great ledge you can cheat over to and rest for the upper part. Given the amount of chalk there I would guess this is done often. I know I took advantage of it. Its also easy to get back onto the line from the ledge.
By Larry Shaw Sep 4, 2004 rating: 5.10c6b20VIIE2 5b
The bottom section goes further right than one might think...excellent route with an exciting finish. I remember the feet being really good on this one.
"I remember the feet being really good on this one."
Not anymore. I broke what seems to be a key foothold right below the slight bulge about half way up. Could've finished it with the foot, but without, I had to bail. My opinion is a grade or 2 harder now, maybe 11a.
I'm not sure about the location of broken foothold, but I just did this route last weekend, and it is still .10b/c, and yes it is still one of the best 10s at Cactus.
By kjdetlor From: Colorado Springs, CO May 18, 2007
I hopped on this route at the end of my day and had an absolute BLAST on it. It has basically all types of climbing, steep in parts, slabby in sections, and really balancy, and heck if you skip the last bolt and head to the right, there is even some kinda fun crack climbing too. A must do when at Cactus.
This route is a must do if you don't have to wait in line to climb it. I agree this was a 5.10b maybe 5.10b/c. All the holds are there but near the top where the rock gets black and sharp you may need to figure out your grip.
Good crimps, cool pockets, great jugs and a little traversing at the bottom. Even a bit pumpy. For those of you homesick from the New River Gorge (like me) this climb has a few holds that might remind you of home.
By Caleb Phillips From: Boulder, CO Oct 19, 2009 rating: 5.10b/c6b20VIIE2 5b
10c if you take the baby-roof direct. There's a nice ledge to deadpoint left to from a R-hand undercling. Then pull up like a thug. If you bail left at the roof onto the chunky stuff it's 10b IMHO and a less interesting climb (the chunky stuff blows the aesthetic on the lower section a little bit).
By Bill Olszewski From: Colorado Springs, CO Nov 10, 2010 rating: 5.10b/c6b20VIIE2 5b
Great climb! I don't think there's a move harder than .10b, but this route is very sustained and quite pumpy.
By mountainmicah83 From: Colorado Springs Nov 22, 2010 rating: 5.10b/c6b20VIIE2 5b
It's all about the right hand. My right arm seemed to get pretty pumped on this.
As of 11/19/11, THE BOLT HANGERS ON THIS ROUTE ARE WORN ABOUT 3/4 OF THE WAY THROUGH (there are no quick-links, rings or chains). Who knows when I'll be back, but if anyone wishes to take the initiative of replacing the hangers (with quick-clips would be ideal), the Shelf community would be forever grateful. The route is travelled so frequently, it should really have better hardware. Thanks!
By John Dubya Dec 10, 2012 rating: 5.10+6b+21VII+E3 5b
Hangers still worn down as of 12/06/12. Do not top rope off them and bring an ATC to lower yourself off; otherwise safe and quite fun.