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Ken Black Memorial Dome
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Poultry Pilots T 

Blackjack 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Bob Gaines, Todd Gordon, Yvonne Gaines, December 1995
Page Views: 1,059
Submitted By: Bob Gaines on Feb 6, 2007

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Blackjack

Description 

7 bolt sport climb between Pitch Black and Holiday in the Sun.

Location 

Southeast facing. Morning to midday sun, late afternoon shade.

Protection 

7 bolts to 2 bolt lower-off anchor.


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Blackjack, 5.10d
BETA PHOTO: Blackjack, 5.10d

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By C Miller
Administrator
Mar 20, 2007
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

A great sport route that's literally one minute from the road. Starts up an easy, left-slanting crack/flake (optional pro if you feel the need) to a well bolted vertical face with crimps and delicate footwork. It finishes up a short section of perfect handcrack (again, optional pro if you desire) to sport anchors on a small ledge. For those climbing even reasonably comfortably at the grade nothing more than quickdraws are needed. Three stars out of five.
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Feb 1, 2013
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Really fun route, and very well-bolted.

A #1 or #2 camalot before the first bolt, and I placed a green C3 and a medium nut at the top.

Crux is definitely delicate, the rest is super positive edging up the steep wall.
By kevin deweese
From: Oakland, Ca
Mar 22, 2014

For the follower/2nd on blackjack

Place a .4 grey C4 at the base of the crack so that if the second falls on the lieback moves after in clipping the last bolt they don't swing far to the left and have to go up the easier left way or work hard to swing back to the bolt