Blackjack 5.10b/c R
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Description This route is typical of the south face in that it is runout and serious. It doesn't have the beautiful climbing that some of the other routes do. This routes follows the obvious left leaning, slot-type thing that is the most prominent feature on the lower south face.
This route is rated 10a, but is harder and more serious than Metamorphosis (10b). There is serious fall potential on this route. 5.10 moves are required 15 feet out from gear - and not very good gear. Ancient pins protect some of the climbing and they can't be backed up.
This route is unusual and took me a long time to figure out and muster up my courage to complete. It is also serious for the second. I stayed in the slot until near the ramp belay, but did not stay in the entire way. To stay in the slot completely at the end looks to be at least 5.11- and unprotected.
Protection Bring all the techie gear you have up to #2 Camalot, but don't expect to get much. This route is serious - much more so than the VS-rated Yellow Traverse and much harder.
By david goldstein
Oct 27, 2003
rating: 5.10b
| I agree w/ BW that this route is somewhat stiff for its guidebook rating of 10a, but I disagree w/ him that it has terrible pro and completely sucks. The fixed pins, which are Dolemite style relics, can be backed up. In particlular, a #2 RP (red) provides toprope protection for the crux step down. The RP itself can be backed up w/ a not-so-great #5 Camalot. Other gear that can be placed to back up the pins: #2 Friend (so-so), green Alien (pretty good). Some of the pins offer more reassurance if tied off. Also, the second can be well protected by placing a couple of high pieces at the start of the initial Metamorphis corner which is easier to do w/ double ropes.
This short pitch has OK moves and gets a weak one star partly for its engrossing nature but maily because it's a Kor route which possibly has some of his original pins in it. |
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