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Ken Black Memorial Dome
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Blackheart T 
Blackjack S 
Blackout T 
Chicken Mechanics T 
Fryer Flyers T 
Holiday In The Sun T 
Lewis Black  T 
My Friends Treat Me Like a Mushroom T 
Pacific Avenue Dorm T 
Pitch Black T 
Poultry Pilots T 

Blackheart 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Bob Gaines and Alan Bartlett, March 1997
Page Views: 256
Submitted By: Adam Stackhouse on May 25, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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BETA PHOTO: Blackheart route line with bolts

Description 

This along with Blackout are located on the nice looking "3-tiered" face on the far left side of the Ken Black formation. Easily visible from the road. This is the lefthand line passing a couple of bolts to a two bolt anchor/rap

Protection 

A few cams and bolts, 2 bolt anchor/rap


Photos of Blackheart Slideshow Add Photo
Blackheart, 5.10b
BETA PHOTO: Blackheart, 5.10b

Comments on Blackheart Add Comment
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By Kyle Wills
From: San Diego CA
Mar 7, 2011

On top rope, opted to traverse right and finish on Blackout. A bit more exiting finish, it was a fun way to throw in a traverse and the final bulge, but with good holds, and some more slab moves.
By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
May 21, 2014
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

This route starts at the large rock scar on the left end of the crag. Some funky moves on poor rock get you past the first bolt and then you can slug in some 1"-2" pro in the horizontal crack. Keep moving up and left past another bolt and easier climbing to some more pro (2" stuff) in the next horizontal.
Two bolts with chains on top. I TR'd it.

note: The Stackhouse beta photo for this little crag is not accurate.
By RTM
May 22, 2014

I found Blackheart to be stout for the grade of .10b