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Blackened 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Ward Smith, 2/94
Page Views: 415
Submitted By: richard magill on Dec 10, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Description 

Another of the less popular, more crimpy, routes on the left side of the wall.

A reasonable start leads to a huge move to an even more huge hold. Then you set up for a very difficult crux with another big move.

Rating is sort of a wild guess - I messed up the crux and never did really get it right: so if you have done this before and have an opinion on the difficulty, please toss it in here.


Location 

One route left of Scorpions, overall the 3rd route in from the left side of the wall.


Protection 

5 bolts to anchors



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By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Nov 11, 2012
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Good route flying under the radar. Crimpy yet straightforward climbing with no dynos. Long moves, yes, but no dynamic moves required.

By Adam Floyd
From: Las Vegas
Oct 29, 2013

Thanks to a donation from the ASCA stainless steel carabiners and quick links were added to this anchor.