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Llama Wall
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American Nirvana S 
Blackened S 
Entering Relativity S 
Eye of the Beholder S 
Eye of the Beholder Finish S 
Harvester of Sorrow S 
Llama Enlightenment S 
Llama Sutra S 
Olive S 
Wannabe Llamas S 
When Llamas Need Protection T 

Blackened 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 1,544
Submitted By: Bryson Slothower on May 2, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (32)
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BETA PHOTO: blackened

Seasonal Raptor Closure 2012 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A fun and extremely well protected climb on excellent rock.

Start out on steep ground just right of Condor. A low bolt is followed by some awkward moves up to and over a bulge. After the bulge traverse right following a finger crack with thin feet. Eventually step back left onto the face and finish on steep pockets in the clean white face.

Location 

This climb is located in an area just North of the Phoenix Wall. Approach by hiking to Phoenix and traverse back right along the base of the cliff passing 100% Beef, a 5.13 project and Condor (all in the Watt's guide). Blackened is the first bolt line right of the parallel cracks of Condor, it climbs a steep white face with closely spaced bolts.

Protection 

bolts


Photos of Blackened Slideshow Add Photo
light through the crack on Blackened
light through the crack on Blackened
Blackened
Blackened

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By bryans
Jun 21, 2006
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

This climb can only be 11d if you do the contrived version of staying directly on the bolt line without taking advantage of the obvious stems and rests out right. There is no way it's 11d if you follow the path of least resistance to the chains. All the same, sweet climb.
By Peter Franzen
Administrator
From: Phoenix, AZ
Sep 24, 2006
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Fantastic climb. The grade may be a bit off compared to other .11ds at Smith but it's still loads of fun.
By Karsten
From: Sacramento, CA
Jan 9, 2007

One of the best of the newer climbs at smith.
By ktaylor
From: Bay Area, CA
May 25, 2009
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Fun route! A bit sharp. There is another fun route of similar grade, but much different style, to the left of 100% Beef.
By Toby Butterfield
From: Portland, OR
Sep 12, 2011

If you stay to the right, then you're climbing "Lightly Toasted," a 5.11b. If you stay to the left on the face, then you're on Blackened, the 5.11d described here... hence the contrivance, since the same boltline is used to protect both routes.
By JGHarrison
From: Reno, NV
Oct 30, 2011

Really fun line, took some figuring for me to work out the beta. Very sharp. If you are on a road trip save it for the last day.