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Blackbeard's Tears, has it been freed?
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By Benjamin F
From Arcata, CA
May 6, 2012
Topping out, first time doing Juicifer without any...
Has anyone come close to freeing Blackbeard's Tears? mountainproject.com/v/blackbea...

Does anyone have any idea where it would go free around? 13+?

I'm thinking about committing to a week or so of working on it toward the end of summer.

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By Matthias Holladay
From Durango, Colorado
May 6, 2012
Find these and enjoy some new routes!
Bless You Ben! I have been waiting years for someone to try this, one of the best prizes on the west coast. Although I have never climbed harder than 11c-d, and can't really speak of the 12-13 realm, the "breaking wave" portion will likely give you big pleasure. Wish I was in the 'hood, as I'd love to watch your heroic efforts and hopeful success. Please keep us all posted, thanks.

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By Benjamin F
From Arcata, CA
May 6, 2012
Topping out, first time doing Juicifer without any...
thanks for your support! it looks so incredible...i really like overhung finger cracks, the fun is always worth the pain and its always very gratifying to send them. hopefully i can at least come close to dialing in on a sequence for that crux. it looks brutal

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By Matthias Holladay
From Durango, Colorado
May 11, 2012
Find these and enjoy some new routes!
Yeah it does look very difficult, and no problem Ben, just don't try changing the name if you free it . . .

And isn't it hard to believe no one has posted a response yet to even say they had done it on aid . . . ?

Do you know of anyone who has done it on aid to the top? I don't. Of course I left the Humboldt Bay Area years ago . . .

This leads me to think it has not even had a complete second ascent.

What are you West Coasters doing out there? With the superb cliffs on Trinidad Head, as well as all the other gems in the area, perhaps you are busy . . .

It's really not that hard of an aid climb, as it does take a lot of pro. Someone must have worked on at least the lower part, as they are the likely ones who put in the two-bolt anchor, near where I had girth-hitched a chockstone.

Rick S. wrote he thought it was Eric C. who bolted Redwood Burl and that's fine, but did E.C. also bolt the aforementioned anchor and make progress on BB's Tears? And while we're at it, how often does the Great White get done?

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By Morgan Patterson
Administrator
May 11, 2012
Topo - Cliffs in Green
That whole wall looks amazing...

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By Matthias Holladay
From Durango, Colorado
May 23, 2012
Find these and enjoy some new routes!
It IS amazing isn't it? Very special place.

So, basically two weeks and no reply. I suppose the folks who put the anchor in don't read M.P.

As for Redwood Burl and The Great White, I am still curious...

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By Benjamin F
From Arcata, CA
Jun 22, 2012
Topping out, first time doing Juicifer without any...
went and scouted the line yesterday. im stoked. the aforementioned hostel is boarded up and overgrown, who knows when that closed down. i'll be in the area (Arcata) from August to December, and i'll be heading up to work this route every chance i get (perhaps once a week even). if anyone would like to join me, id be very grateful for the company and the committed belayer. message me and we can exchange phone numbers

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By Lurker
Jun 22, 2012
Ben-

I'm currently based out of Klamath, just south of Promontory, and would be psyched to check it out. Haven't had much luck finding any climbing partners in the area so far...I'll PM you my info.

Any other North Coast climbers out there? Dying to check out Trinity Aretes, Land of the Lost, So-So Grotto, Trinity Alps, well anything really. Hit me up...

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By Matthias Holladay
From Durango, Colorado
Jul 28, 2012
Find these and enjoy some new routes!
Ben! Morgan! North Coasters! Blackbeard's Tears. . . Has its FFA been realized?
On the FA...
On the FA...

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By Lurker
Aug 1, 2012
Probably hasn't been freed yet...and if it goes in the .13 range, it probably won't ever get freed by me. I think I'll give it a run though...

Been thinking about some bolt/anchor replacement in the Promontory/Footsteps area. Any thoughts or recommendations on bolt types? I know they've started using stainless glue-ins in places like Thailand. Wouldn't regular expansion bolts work just as well on the north coast? I've got a bunch of stainless steel bolts/hangers around. Anyone with any actual experience placing bolts in coastal environments?

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By Stone Nude
Aug 1, 2012
When dumb people have disposable income, hilarity ...
Sam Lightner but you're probably going to want to man up and post under a name if you're going to beg for some time+wisdom. My 2 cents.

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By Benjamin F
From Arcata, CA
Aug 3, 2012
Topping out, first time doing Juicifer without any...
figured i'd post an update.

finally made it back up here to the redwood coast and jumped on blackbeard's tears yesterday with a friendly fellow MPer.

the first 5.11 section alone gave us quite a headache, with footholds breaking, sand/dirt covering everything, just a general look of neglect. the first section is cleaned up and the sequence is dialed, so our next trip is going to be focused on replacing the hideous looking bolts and dusting off the upper sections.

from the looks of it, this is gonna be an epic undertaking, but im very psyched.

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By Matthias Holladay
From Durango, Colorado
Sep 16, 2012
Find these and enjoy some new routes!
Way to go guys and I appreciate your efforts at these splendid locales. Nothing like climbing on the North Coast!
If I recall correctly, once past the "breaking wave portion," it was easy thin nailing, so bolts would definitely be needed there...or, wherever.
So, how's it going?

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By Benjamin F
From Arcata, CA
Feb 1, 2013
Topping out, first time doing Juicifer without any...
UPDATE, and also an INVITE:

We've only made one trip to promontory recently, me and another HSU student, Nic Sabo. Blackbeard up to the first bolts is still dusty, so we brushed it off a bit and replaced the webbing on the rusty bolts. The rust had grown around the old webbing, and it took a bit of force to rip them. I can post pictures if anyone is curious how sketchy leaver gear can get on the Northwest Coast.

We're currently organizing a weekend trip in the near future to spend some time re-bolting, possible bolting new routes, and also clearing up some trails and paths. If anyone would like to participate in the effort, please let me know. Either on here or by emailing me at bkf59@humboldt.edu

Also, any objections, questions, or concerns over these proposed new routes, PLEASE CONTACT ME. We simply want to contribute to the area, and certainly not degrade it.



Side Note:
On this last trip, Nic one hung Great White, falling on the last move on his second attempt. I seconded and hung the living shit out of it...extremely challenging. Rounded 'sandcastle' 'pinches' that fall apart in your hands, and their use is mandatory..."Part of the game", as Nic said.
If you can climb .12 pretty well, I highly recommend adding Great White to your tick list...truly unique/awesome.

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By Matthias Holladay
From Durango, Colorado
Feb 14, 2013
Find these and enjoy some new routes!
Nic and Ben!

Yeah, for sure, you guys bolt/replace whatever you have the efforts for… But note Rick’s comment about bolts on Centipede Aręte which break the rock before they'll pull.

Pictures are always appreciated, especially of sketchy leaver gear. 



Well, wish I was in the vicinity for a weekend trip bolting new routes—there’s lots of lovely vertical terrain to choose from for those willing to put them up...

Where are these proposed new routes, by the way?

From “The Jug Hauls” at South Footsteps we eyed a traversing line up and left which might initially involve some bat-hooking, but then the size of the holds increase, as I recall, and once there the West Face of South Footsteps is waiting—talk about a premier sea cliff!

Glad you guys liked Great White.

Keep us all in the loop!

FLAG
By Benjamin F
From Arcata, CA
Feb 26, 2013
Topping out, first time doing Juicifer without any...
Will do. We're going to be extremely selective about what we replace, and will patch as best we can anything we take out.

We've been entertaining the idea of using titanium glue ins, similar to what they've been using in thailand:
upskillclimbing.com/2011/03/ti...
(just something we're looking into. we'd have to do it a little differently due to the different kind of rock, but we've been in contact with people who bolt with titanium, and exploring every option for bolting the best we can in the unique climate.)


Still in the planning stages, also waiting on better weather.

As far as new routes, we're considered various routes we've climbed on top rope, using the anchor for Great White. The difficulties and aesthetics vary, and we will intensely scrutinize every single bolt we propose placing. Past Centipede and west of the corridor, there is a lot of potential, as well. When I climbed with Matt (another MPer) a while back, we both noted how many possibilities you'd have to wrestle with if someone were choosing what to bolt and what not to bolt.

I'll probably take some pictures and draw X's and post on here for suggestions/comments just to be certain we're bolting quality routes, as soon as we've gone again and scouted them.

FLAG
 


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