Blackbeard 5.10c
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Description Head up just behind the large blocks to the right of the crag, following a black streak up the cobbles. Crux right around the third bolt. Crux can be bypassed above the third bolt by moving to the right.
CAUTION: Watch the pillar behind you! Potential for leader to hit it.
Location Right side of crag, behind the large boulder, going up the black streak.
Protection 8 bolts to anchors.
Glenn finishing up the route as he clips the last ...
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Steve in the deck zone!
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By Larry Earley
From: Los Alamos, NM
Oct 8, 2006
rating: 5.10d
| Excellent climb. Steep climbing on positive holds. Falling low can be a danger. Popular. Strong gym climbers like this one. |
By Jesse Morehouse
From: CO
Jun 7, 2008
| I second the warning about falls low on the route. A fun climb. |
By lance hadfield
From: tijeras
Jun 15, 2010
| the FA on this climb was Mark Thomas I am pretty sure |
By Levi Wilner
From: Alamosa, CO
Apr 4, 2011
| Bold Text 5 stitches. Flipped upside down by rope behind my leg. Nearest Hospital Espanola. Mind the Boulder, not the ground. |
By Step hen
From: Fort Collins, CO
Apr 28, 2011
rating: 5.10c PG13
| Levi,
Did you nail the boulder on the way down? While I was leading this, my noob belayer caught the rope under a rock and freaked out, waiting until another climbing partner came to the rescue. Meanwhile, I was stuck at the fourth bolt not yet clipped and getting pulled down like a vortex toward that boulder. This climb is sketchy, and its quality pales in comparison with others on Pirate's. Best wishes to you for a speedy recovery. |
By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Apr 28, 2011
| Ouch, Levi. Glad you're OK. While I've heard from many concerned people about the boulder behind the climber I've never actually heard of anyone hitting it in a clean fall. The rope behind the leg while leading will most likely be bad no matter what--if the leader's head doesn't hit the boulder first, it'll hit the wall instead.
Mind the rope, then the boulder, then the ground. :-) |
By Justin Whitell
From: Colorado
Jul 28, 2011
| On 7/26/11 I removed the super sketchy sawn through snap links from the anchor. The chains are still in good condition. Bring quickdraws to toprope. |
By Rob Warden, Space Lizard
From: Springdale Ut
Dec 20, 2011
| if you blow the third clip you will get really smashed. I watch my boss get a nasty concusion here. also wear a helmet. |
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