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Pirate's Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Blackbeard S 
Booty (aka Long John) S 
Oxymorons S 
Pirated S 
Scurvy Dog S 
Trick or Treat? (aka Captain Hook) S 
Walking the Plank (aka The Buzz) S 

Blackbeard 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Mark Thomas
Page Views: 1,740
Submitted By: Anthony Stout on Apr 24, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (47)
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Follow the obvious black stripe.

Description 

Head up just behind the large blocks to the right of the crag, following a black streak up the cobbles. Crux right around the third bolt. Crux can be bypassed above the third bolt by moving to the right.

CAUTION: Watch the pillar behind you! Potential for leader to hit it.

Location 

Right side of crag, behind the large boulder, going up the black streak.

Protection 

8 bolts to anchors.


Photos of Blackbeard Slideshow Add Photo
Glenn finishing up the route as he clips the last ...
Glenn finishing up the route as he clips the last ...
Steve in the deck zone!
Steve in the deck zone!

Comments on Blackbeard Add Comment
Show which comments
By Larry Earley
From: Los Alamos, NM
Oct 8, 2006
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Excellent climb. Steep climbing on positive holds. Falling low can be a danger. Popular. Strong gym climbers like this one.
By Jesse Morehouse
From: CO
Jun 7, 2008

I second the warning about falls low on the route. A fun climb.
By lance hadfield
From: tijeras
Jun 15, 2010

the FA on this climb was Mark Thomas I am pretty sure
By Levi Wilner
From: Alamosa, CO
Apr 4, 2011

Bold Text 5 stitches. Flipped upside down by rope behind my leg. Nearest Hospital Espanola. Mind the Boulder, not the ground.
By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Apr 28, 2011

Ouch, Levi. Glad you're OK. While I've heard from many concerned people about the boulder behind the climber I've never actually heard of anyone hitting it in a clean fall. The rope behind the leg while leading will most likely be bad no matter what--if the leader's head doesn't hit the boulder first, it'll hit the wall instead.

Mind the rope, then the boulder, then the ground. :-)
By Justin Whitell
From: California
Jul 28, 2011

On 7/26/11 I removed the super sketchy sawn through snap links from the anchor. The chains are still in good condition. Bring quickdraws to toprope.
By Rob Warden, Space Lizard
From: Springdale Ut
Dec 20, 2011

if you blow the third clip you will get really smashed. I watch my boss get a nasty concusion here. also wear a helmet.
By DGraham
Jun 18, 2014
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X

Fo real, I don't know why this doesn't have some sort of pg 13, R or even X rated since blowing the 3rd clip is a ground fall (on the boulder that the pictures don't show you) which is the definition of "X" rated I believe. That aside, pretty cool route that scared the crap out of me.