Blackballed 5.10c
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10 [details] |
| FA: | Gary Clark? |
| Submitted By: | George Perkins on Jun 19, 2007 |
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Alex starts the steep exit
Black Balled (5.10)
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Description Blackballed is the middle route on the S face of Gnar Wall (15' left of Crest Chewel).
Cruise the lower part of the climb on jugs, leading to a dilemma near the last bolt at the steepest section: do you want to go just left of the last bolt or go try going just right? Both work- probably about the same rating?
Protection 4 bolts to 2 bolt anchor
By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jun 26, 2007
rating: 5.10c
| Going right at the crux feels best to me. I remember a left hand side pull when going left which thwarted me in the past. Straight up also works just fine. |
By Jason Hundhausen
From: Bozeman, MT
Jul 1, 2007
rating: 5.10c
| Fun stuff! Pretty mellow then a good crux before pulling a small roof to the anchors. (I tend to go right at the crux too.) Had fun on this one. |
By ScottCThompson
May 12, 2009
rating: 5.10b
| Great route. I found it to be as difficult as Balls to the Wall, but a bit more sustained. |
By manuel rangel
Nov 11, 2009
rating: 5.10b
| Good climb but a bit easier for me so I didn't feel it was 5.10c. It was just a hard pull on the right then a big jug. Great fun. |
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