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Gnar Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Balls to the Wall S 
Blackballed S 
Crest Chewel S 
Look Ma No Cavities S 
Tooth Fairy S 

Blackballed 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Gary Clark?
Page Views: 1,175
Submitted By: George Perkins on Jun 19, 2007

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Alex starts the steep exit
Black Balled (5.10)

Description 

Blackballed is the middle route on the S face of Gnar Wall (15' left of Crest Chewel).

Cruise the lower part of the climb on jugs, leading to a dilemma near the last bolt at the steepest section: do you want to go just left of the last bolt or go try going just right? Both work- probably about the same rating?


Protection 

4 bolts to 2 bolt anchor



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By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jun 26, 2007
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Going right at the crux feels best to me. I remember a left hand side pull when going left which thwarted me in the past. Straight up also works just fine.

By Jason Hundhausen
From: Bozeman, MT
Jul 1, 2007
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Fun stuff! Pretty mellow then a good crux before pulling a small roof to the anchors. (I tend to go right at the crux too.) Had fun on this one.

By ScottCThompson
May 12, 2009
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Great route. I found it to be as difficult as Balls to the Wall, but a bit more sustained.

By manuel rangel
From: Tempe, Arizona
Nov 11, 2009
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Good climb but a bit easier for me so I didn't feel it was 5.10c. It was just a hard pull on the right then a big jug. Great fun.

By Jimmy Buchanan
Jun 12, 2014

Really sick route. Goes well on good jugs until the slight overhang, where a left hand undercling helps you to grab a great sloper above the overhang. REALLY fun. Consider top roping it, figuring out the crux, and then leading it. Might make it more enjoyable