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Black Widow Slab
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Black Widow Recess 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 64
Submitted By: George Bracksieck on Nov 1, 2013
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Description 

I named this after a similar climb that I led near the Cookie Monster, in Nevada's Red Rocks.

Between the bolted project (which is just right of Dracula) and Spectre is a recess below a hanging chimney. On Aug 19, I started on the left edge of the recess, using jugs on overhanging face. I clipped a few bolts, then started placing gear. Higher, I reached left with a sling and clipped another bolt. Using my chicken wing, I attempted to burrow into the offwidth, which eventually opened into a dirty chamber. I climbed up to its ceiling and chickened out. I belayed David Light up, and he solved the intimidating exit to the right, to Spectre's anchors. While I was belaying, I noticed a moderate-looking face that exited the chamber from low on climber's right.


Location 

Between the bolted project on the left and Spectre, on the right, is an obvious chimney/recess system.


Protection 

SR through 4 inches; the optional bolts on left were gratifying to clip.



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