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Black Wave Wall
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L to R R to L Alpha
A Woman Scorned 
Black Wave 
Controlled Burn 
Fear Factor 
Forest Management 
Slab Management 
Smoked Crackers 

Black Wave 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Head Crew
Page Views: 466
Submitted By: Orphaned on Mar 19, 2006
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Black Wave is probably the most obvious route on the wall and takes the black streak just right of A Woman Scorned. Belay at a cool hole with a bolt and solve the low-down crux (11a) with layaways and edges to a second milder face crux ending at good holds. The closely-bolted upper wall eases on still excellent climbing to a brief rest at the break. The moderate (5.9) upper wall continues to reward.

This is another outstanding climb that is one of the best easy 5.11 routes at the Head. It is probably not as classic as some others (e.g. Dave's Dilemma) but is still close to four stars.


14-16 draws.

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