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Morning Glory Alcove
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Black watch 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
Season: low tide
Page Views: 906
Submitted By: nickv on Mar 4, 2008

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The left most route (facing the cliff) in the M.G alcove. Climb up to obvious groove, near the top of the groove step left onto the face. follow to top.


From the top of the alcove locate the right most (facing ocean) anchor (1 bolt can be backed up with nuts) and rap in.


Trad gear and two bolts. 1 bolt anchor can be backed up with gear.

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By John Gassel
From: Boston, MA
Jul 7, 2015
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

It's really easy to access this route by walking (climber's left) across the rocks a few feet from where the standard 2-bolt Morning Glory rappel drops you off.

I found the movement and the protection to be thoughtful and good throughout the climb. Getting to the high first bolt might seem sketchy but the climbing is not too hard. The crux is high on the route when you have plenty of gear in already.

A #3 C4 backs up the single bolt anchor at the top very well.
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