This is the second best 5.9 at PK. Bring your jamming skills. Enter the chimney left of Yellow Wallpaper. Keep walking until you get to a rock in the floor that lies at a 45 degree slant. Look up to your right; you'll see a round bulge 10' up. This route follows the prominent crack that shoots straight up through the bulge and the wall above. Follow the crack past a couple scary wedged blocks until 10' below the top, make a couple steps to the right and fire through the steep juggy top-out (crux).
Not really adequate - and a fall in the chimney would be bad. Tricky TR anchor.
Sep 1, 2009
The pro really is fine on this route (bring a #3 Camalot and possibly larger cam), once your eyes adjust to the darkness. There are two cruxes: the initial bulge, and the jug-haul top out. The gear for the latter is the only dicey bit.
|By Bryan Harris|
Sep 13, 2010
So, I take it the other wall of the chimney is off-route for this and the other face climb inside the chimney? I did this route with a friend on Saturday, but we stemmed it the whole way. Is the chimney itself a route?
|By Dana Bartlett|
Aug 22, 2013
This climbs much better than it looks. Aside for the last bit - which didn't seem difficult - there are plenty of opportunites for protection.