|Black Velvet Wall
This is one of the premier walls in Red Rock. It features a wealth and variety of good climbing from the chimneys of Epinephrine to the balancy edges on Dream of Wild Turkeys.
From the Black Velvet parking lot, follow the old bicycle road west for a few hundred yards. When the road turns left, continue west on a good trail. At the base of Whiskey Peak, the is a trail branching left to climb up to Frogland and nearby routes; continue west, climbing slightly before dropping into the deep wash on your immediate right. Follow the streambed up until it is blocked by a cliff band. On the left side of the wash trails lead up to a steep 3rd class route through the band. From the top of the cliff either go straight south toward routes near Dream of Wild Turkeys, or drop back to the streambed and continue upstream a short distance to the Epinephrine area.
24 Total Routes
['4 Stars',9],['3 Stars',13],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in Black Velvet Wall
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Black Velvet Wall:
Epinephrine 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Trad, 13 pitches, 1600'
Sour Mash 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a Trad, 6 pitches, 600'
The Gobbler 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a Trad, 3 pitches, 200'
Spark Plug 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Lone Star 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c Trad, Grade V
Featured Route For Black Velvet Wall
Prince of Darkness 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b NV
: Red Rock
: ... : Black Velvet Wall
Approach as for Dream of Wild Turkeys, the first pitch is shared with this climb.Prince of Darkness ascends straight up the center of Black Velvet Wall. From the ground, 5.10 climbing seems improbable up this blank looking face. Once on the rock, positive edges abound.Pitch 1: 5.6 Start up the right facing shallow corners to the crack above. Place some gear or solo to the anchors.Pitch 2: 5.10b From the bolted anchors, climb straight up the face past many bolts. Mostly positive edges with a ...[more] Browse More Classics in NV
Latest Regional Forum Messages
Black Velvet Wall.
Photo by Blitzo.
BETA PHOTO: A typical day in the Velvet.
Red = Prince of Da...
Climbers on pitch 3 of Wild Turkeys and myself (at...
Black Velvet Wall from the approach trail...gettin...
Black Velvet Peak moonset
Black Velvet Wall
Keith Phelps running it out on Sandstone Samurai
BETA PHOTO: Panorama of BVW using fisheye projection over 4 im...
The Black Velvet Wall
|Comments on Black Velvet Wall
Jul 30, 2009
Hi all- I'm not seeing, in the roster of routes, a route called something like "7 Samaurai", which I remember doing (Boy, do I remember that one) a long time ago, in the late 80's or maybe early 90's? We were trying to climb something else nearby, and ended up on a route with 2-bolt belays and exactly 1 protection bolt 1/2 way between them, for maybe 5 pitches or so. We asked later at a local climbing shop what the heck that was (not in our guidebook) and they said we'd just done maybe the 2nd ascent of a newish route. Did I just dream this?? Do I have the name all wrong? It was one of the most memorable climbs in my so-far 30 years of climbing.... Help an old man remember- thanks! tim hansen, estes park, colorado
|By Larry DeAngelo|
Jul 30, 2009
Sounds like Sandstone Samurai... Write it up!
Jul 31, 2009
I got to thinking that I'm not at all sure when we did this climb- might have been earlier yet. At any rate, I'm sure a local can write this route up way better than I can, I remember it being somewhat L of center on the wall (or near Rock Warrior??), with a spot of 5.11 on the 1st pitch, and then 3, or 4, or 5? more pitches of maybe solid 5.9, on the usual great rock, but only 1 bolt 75' out from each belay. There was no chalk on this route, and I felt fortunate to find these single bolts out in the middle of nowhere! Was also able to occasionally get an RP (small nut) in now and then, just to dial the fear factor down a little. Just wondering why it is not included in the BVW roster of routes?
From: Sacramento, CA
Jul 31, 2009
No in the route database because it is probably done like 1-2 times per year if that. Sounds like a step up from rock warrior as far as commitment.
Aug 10, 2009
Excellent route if you're up to it, but I recommend that you be climbing at least solid 11,if not 12, with a lot of previous successful run-outs on 5.10 under your belt before attempting this one. Tiny slings and other creative gear placements are also helpful. I wonder if the bolts on it are even safe anymore?? Would be a trade route with up-dated, and added, bolts, but of course this is up to the 1st ascensionists and local climbing community. Anyway- very bold route in it's day, just happened to remember it for no particular reason and tried to look it up here. I see that it is described in "Red Rocks Select", by Todd Swain, 1995. BVW is one of the best, anywhere, in my book!
|By Jeff Dunbar|
From: Carrboro, NC
Oct 19, 2009
I had an awesome first day at the Black Velvet Wall this Saturday (10/17/09), but I just realized I left my red Leki trecking poles at the base of the 3rd class cliff band on the approach. What a buzz kill!
If any kind soul happens to find my trecking poles, please drop me a line: c) 949-322-3963
|By Kevin Volkening|
Mar 18, 2012
Climbed an "approach" pitch which we thought was P1 of Yellow Rose. Book said to climb to a crack with one bolt. Really sandy and felt much harder than 10a...any idea what this might be?