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Black Velvet Wall

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
American Flesh Dance (Combination of The Flesh plus American Ghost Dance) 
Ancient Futures 
Cutting Edge 
Dream of Wild Turkeys 
Epinephrine 
Fiddler on the Roof 
Gobbler, The 
I'm Not Worthy 
Johnny Come Lately 
Lone Star 
My Little Pony 
Overhanging Hangover 
Prince of Darkness 
Refried Brains 
Rock Warrior 
Sandstone Samurai 
Smooth as Silk 
Sour Mash 
Spark Plug 
Steel Monkey 
Texanephrine 
Texas Hold 'Em 
Texas Tower Direct 
Velveeta 
Velvet Tongue, The 
Yellow Brick Road 

Black Velvet Wall 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 36.03518, -115.46652 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 599,638
Administrators: Larry DeAngelo, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: M.Morley on Feb 16, 2004
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BETA PHOTO: Black Velvet Wall

Description 

This is one of the premier walls in Red Rock. It features a wealth and variety of good climbing from the chimneys of Epinephrine to the balancy edges on Dream of Wild Turkeys.


Getting There 

From the Black Velvet parking lot, follow the old bicycle road west for a few hundred yards. When the road turns left, continue west on a good trail. At the base of Whiskey Peak, the is a trail branching left to climb up to Frogland and nearby routes; continue west, climbing slightly before dropping into the deep wash on your immediate right. Follow the streambed up until it is blocked by a cliff band. On the left side of the wash trails lead up to a steep 3rd class route through the band. From the top of the cliff either go straight south toward routes near Dream of Wild Turkeys, or drop back to the streambed and continue upstream a short distance to the Epinephrine area.


26 Total Routes


['4 Stars',10],['3 Stars',15],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',2],['5.10',15],['5.11',6],['5.12',3],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Black Velvet Wall:
Refried Brains   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 4 pitches, 800'   
Epinephrine   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 13 pitches, 1600'   
Overhanging Hangover   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   
Sour Mash   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Trad, 6 pitches, 600'   
Dream of Wild Turkeys   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Trad, 7 pitches, 700'   
The Gobbler   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Trad, 3 pitches, 200'   
Spark Plug   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Rock Warrior   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b R     Trad, 6 pitches   
Yellow Brick Road   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 5 pitches, 550'   
Johnny Come Lately   5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 120'   
Prince of Darkness   5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 6 pitches, 700'   
Fiddler on the Roof   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Trad, Sport, 7 pitches, 500'   
Texanephrine   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Trad, 14 pitches, 1500'   
Smooth as Silk   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 340'   
Velveeta   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c R     Trad, 5 pitches, 1000'   
Lone Star   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c     Trad, Grade V   
Texas Hold 'Em   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a     Trad, 9 pitches, 1100'   
Cutting Edge   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 125'   
The Velvet Tongue   5.12+ 7c 28 IX E6 6b     Trad, 6 pitches, 600'   
Texas Tower Direct   5.12d 7c 28 IX E6 6b     Trad, 6 pitches, 500'   
Browse More Classics in Black Velvet Wall

Featured Route For Black Velvet Wall
P4 of Velvet Tongue.

The Velvet Tongue 5.12+ 7c 28 IX E6 6b  NV : Red Rock : ... : Black Velvet Wall
This route, along with Jet Stream, is one of the best routes I have climbed recently--bizarre, technical, and intricate. Be prepared to scratch your head a bit. Check out Jerry Handren's new guide for some great photos of unhearlded local badass Tom Moulin on pitches 4 and 5. Begin with the first 3 pitches of Texas Tower Direct(described elsewhere on Mtn. Project), which gains the base of the obvious left facing corner. P4: A small piece or two gains the first bolt, and then it's all bolts from ...[more]   Browse More Classics in NV

Photos of Black Velvet Wall Slideshow Add Photo
Black Velvet Peak moonset
Black Velvet Peak moonset
Climbers on pitch 3 of Wild Turkeys and myself (at the bottom of the photo) on the 2nd pitch of POD.  Photo taken by Darshan Ahluwalia
Climbers on pitch 3 of Wild Turkeys and myself (at...
Keith Phelps running it out on Sandstone Samurai
Keith Phelps running it out on Sandstone Samurai
A typical day in the Velvet.   <br /> <br />Red = Prince of Darkness, Green = Fiddler on the Roof, Purple = Dream of Wild Turkeys, Blue = Epinepherine
BETA PHOTO: A typical day in the Velvet.

Red = Prince of Da...
Black Velvet Wall. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Black Velvet Wall.
Photo by Blitzo.
Black Velvet Wall
Black Velvet Wall
Panorama of BVW using fisheye projection over 4 images.
BETA PHOTO: Panorama of BVW using fisheye projection over 4 im...
September 2004.
September 2004.
Frogland buttress.
Frogland buttress.
Black Velvet Wall from the approach trail...gettin' close.
Black Velvet Wall from the approach trail...gettin...
The Black Velvet Wall
The Black Velvet Wall
Comments on Black Velvet Wall Add Comment
Show which comments
By timoteo
Jul 30, 2009

Hi all- I'm not seeing, in the roster of routes, a route called something like "7 Samaurai", which I remember doing (Boy, do I remember that one) a long time ago, in the late 80's or maybe early 90's? We were trying to climb something else nearby, and ended up on a route with 2-bolt belays and exactly 1 protection bolt 1/2 way between them, for maybe 5 pitches or so. We asked later at a local climbing shop what the heck that was (not in our guidebook) and they said we'd just done maybe the 2nd ascent of a newish route. Did I just dream this?? Do I have the name all wrong? It was one of the most memorable climbs in my so-far 30 years of climbing.... Help an old man remember- thanks! tim hansen, estes park, colorado

By Larry DeAngelo
Administrator
Jul 30, 2009

Sounds like Sandstone Samurai... Write it up!

By timoteo
Jul 31, 2009

I got to thinking that I'm not at all sure when we did this climb- might have been earlier yet. At any rate, I'm sure a local can write this route up way better than I can, I remember it being somewhat L of center on the wall (or near Rock Warrior??), with a spot of 5.11 on the 1st pitch, and then 3, or 4, or 5? more pitches of maybe solid 5.9, on the usual great rock, but only 1 bolt 75' out from each belay. There was no chalk on this route, and I felt fortunate to find these single bolts out in the middle of nowhere! Was also able to occasionally get an RP (small nut) in now and then, just to dial the fear factor down a little. Just wondering why it is not included in the BVW roster of routes?


By Karsten
From: Sacramento, CA
Jul 31, 2009

No in the route database because it is probably done like 1-2 times per year if that. Sounds like a step up from rock warrior as far as commitment.

By timoteo
Aug 10, 2009

Excellent route if you're up to it, but I recommend that you be climbing at least solid 11,if not 12, with a lot of previous successful run-outs on 5.10 under your belt before attempting this one. Tiny slings and other creative gear placements are also helpful. I wonder if the bolts on it are even safe anymore?? Would be a trade route with up-dated, and added, bolts, but of course this is up to the 1st ascensionists and local climbing community. Anyway- very bold route in it's day, just happened to remember it for no particular reason and tried to look it up here. I see that it is described in "Red Rocks Select", by Todd Swain, 1995. BVW is one of the best, anywhere, in my book!

By Jeff Dunbar
From: Carrboro, NC
Oct 19, 2009

I had an awesome first day at the Black Velvet Wall this Saturday (10/17/09), but I just realized I left my red Leki trecking poles at the base of the 3rd class cliff band on the approach. What a buzz kill!

If any kind soul happens to find my trecking poles, please drop me a line: c) 949-322-3963

Thanks!

By Kevin Volkening
Mar 18, 2012

Climbed an "approach" pitch which we thought was P1 of Yellow Rose. Book said to climb to a crack with one bolt. Really sandy and felt much harder than 10a...any idea what this might be?