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Where Paradise Ain't So Crowded (aka "Reamer") 

Black Toe Arete 

5.10a

   
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Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet
Consensus: 5.10a [details]
FA: PH
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Sep 20, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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Easy moves up the first half of the arete.

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Description 

This line doesn't look like much, but offers some intriguing arete climbing at a moderate grade. As with most of the black stone at Shelf, this rock is not as featured as it looks from the ground, so don't be fooled by the low angle.

Bushwhack up to the left side of the arete and begin easily up the crack, moving right, toward the arete as soon as possible. Easy moves split by good rests lead to a rooflet at mid-height. Cruxy moves work over the rooflet to another tricky section on poor feet just above.


Location 

~25 feet right of Skank-to-Crank, climbing the leftmost of two adjacent, black aretes.


Protection 

~5 bolts to 2BA.