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This is a very burly and continuous overhanging finger crack that takes good gear. It can be a little dirty especially after a rain. It is also a great little aid project A2, if you are not redpointing 5.12 trad. Finish at the anchors for Muscle Hustle.
This route is located in between The Muscle Hustle and Tendon Bender.
Small to large stoppers, small to medium cams. and some quickdraws to a 2 bolt anchor.
From: ABQ, NM
Jul 2, 2012
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b
I placed everything from a yellow Alien/TCU to a #1 camalot and a #3 camalot, though I think a #4 would have been better. So I would say doubles to a #1 camalot and a bigger piece. I tried to place one stopper and with the way the crack is formed it just seemed weird, maybe if you were aiding it.
I also finished on the Tendon Bender anchor as it seemed to be in a better position for rope drag and cleaning.