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 ADVANCED
45 Boulder
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beastmaster S 
Black Tar T 
Crimp Chimp S 
Dragonslayer S 
Honkey Serial Killer S 
Little Evil (aka Slope a Dope) S 
Miss Jackson S 
Muscle Hustle S 
Perverse Traverse S 
Tendon Bendin' S 
Unknown Link-up S 
Xena: Warrior Princess S 

Black Tar 

YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Peter Gram
Page Views: 410
Submitted By: Scott Beguin on Aug 30, 2007

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Description 

This is a very burly and continuous overhanging finger crack that takes good gear. It can be a little dirty especially after a rain. It is also a great little aid project A2, if you are not redpointing 5.12 trad. Finish at the anchors for Muscle Hustle.


Location 

This route is located in between The Muscle Hustle and Tendon Bender.


Protection 

Small to large stoppers, small to medium cams. and some quickdraws to a 2 bolt anchor.



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By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Jul 2, 2012
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

I placed everything from a yellow Alien/TCU to a #1 camalot and a #3 camalot, though I think a #4 would have been better. So I would say doubles to a #1 camalot and a bigger piece. I tried to place one stopper and with the way the crack is formed it just seemed weird, maybe if you were aiding it.

I also finished on the Tendon Bender anchor as it seemed to be in a better position for rope drag and cleaning.