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Routes in Dark Side Wall
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Admiral Slackbar S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Belaybesitter S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Black Hole S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Black Magic S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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black sunday S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Blast Off S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Boba Fett-ish S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Breast Pump S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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ChewCocka S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Choda S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Choobies S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Concracktion S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Darth Slaydar S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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death star S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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E-walk S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Establishing Dominance S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Gabba the Nut S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Gives Good Helmet S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Hail President Screwed! S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Han Job Solo S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Into Exile S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Lactation Station S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Millennium Falcon S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Mister Fister S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Muira, Muira On The Wall S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Obi-Wan KanBlowMe S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Passover S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Paternity Test S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Power of the Darkside S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Prison Bound S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Shady Lady S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Sinister S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Sith S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Space Balls S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Star Fighter S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Stump in the Rump S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Suck To Blow S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Tough Lady S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Tough Love S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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| Type: | Sport, 40 ft (12 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 971 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | slim on Jun 16, 2015 · Updates |
| Admins: | Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mikel Madsen, Mark Rafferty |
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Description
black sunday is a great little route at the dark side. this might be the best candidate for a first 12a route here, given its shorter length, lack of brutal tweaking pockets, and perfect protection.
begin through a steep, intimidating, yet surprisingly not too bad starting section on good pockets. this deposits you on a nice section of vertical rock. try to get a decent shake and a game plan before launching up into the sequential crux. from there, easier but not too easy climbing will take you to the anchors. don't worry too much about the orange lichen, there are 'almost' no holds in that zone...
this one is a tricky onsight (probably like many spearfish routes), but once you get it sorted out the climbing is pretty straight forward.
begin through a steep, intimidating, yet surprisingly not too bad starting section on good pockets. this deposits you on a nice section of vertical rock. try to get a decent shake and a game plan before launching up into the sequential crux. from there, easier but not too easy climbing will take you to the anchors. don't worry too much about the orange lichen, there are 'almost' no holds in that zone...
this one is a tricky onsight (probably like many spearfish routes), but once you get it sorted out the climbing is pretty straight forward.
Location
this route is around 120 feet (right) from the left end of the dark side wall, and approximately 50 feet left of the laser cut arete that makes up 'sith' and 'tough love'. this area has a little stone wall and shelf that houses the aqueduct pipe. black sunday is located just left of a big slot/chimney with a ton of orange lichen. the route itself has a fair amount of orange lichen in the top section, which helps in identifying it.
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