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Crux is after the crack at the top
Friends, Medium to Large Nuts
|By Brian Boyd|
Apr 11, 2009
This route get an 'R' rating for the unprotected upper crux section.
Bolt anchors have recently appeared at the top of this route.
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Dec 27, 2010
Brian is correct--the face finish is unprotected and offers up multiple moves of bouldery 10b. A fall would probably be painful, possibly dangerous. Correct this ahead of time by setting an anchor first that extends over the lip and which you can clip from your last rest stance before making the moves (this is where a bolt would normally be placed if this climb did not happen to be at a place like Pinnacle :) ).
Crack portion takes #2-4 Camalots only.
|By Ted Smith|
From: Scottsdale, AZ
Aug 15, 2011
I attempted a lead on this today with a left exit variation that joins the top of Banana Crack and Mystical Adventures. While challenging at about 5.8, this makes for an aesthetically pleasing climb--and the Black Sunday anchors make for an easy descent.