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Reynolds Hill
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Bad Man with a Devil's Hand 
Barf Bucket Traverse 
Black Starr Chimney 
Climb and Punishment 
Climbs of Passion Exit 
Coffee Grinder 
Connecticut Yankee 
Cosmic Debris 
Fat Man's Demise 
Finger Grinder 
Fist Crack, The 
Glenda's Chimney 
Hug Jombo 
Hung Like a Horse 
I'd Rather Be In Philadelphia 
Moor's Crossing 
Peach Cobbler 
Penis Dimension 
Pooh Corner 
Robert's Rectification 
Sky Line 
Spatial Relations 
Time Quake 
Tombstone Crack 
Unknown left of Maiden 
Unsorted Routes:

Black Starr Chimney 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ British: MS 4a

Type: Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ British: MS 4a [details]
Page Views: 430
Submitted By: Buck Dooley on Oct 2, 2008
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BETA PHOTO: Black Starr Chimney.

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This has easy chimneying from start to finish.

If you choose to face the back of the chimney on the first move, a good hand jam on the left side of a round boulder offers great moves onto the lower blocks that are in the back. These blocks can be climbed for another ten feet before you ever have to put your feet up against the chimney wall...but who wants to do that?

Go ahead and start out with what ever chimney technique you are comfortable with, and continue the whole way up. Keep your back on the right side wall, there are plenty of opportunities for gear on the left sidewall. It's only about thirty-five or forty feet to the chockstone on top.

Exit the chimney on the left side of the chockstone and take a moment or two to enjoy the view of the Central Rocks, Nautilus, and Holdout.
Then wipe the bat guano off your hands....


Black Starr is a three foot wide chimney about sixty feet to the right of Pooh Corner. It is littered with huge rocks in the back and has an easily distinguished triangular chockstone at its top.

Scramble up to the mouth of the chimney and belay from the huge ledge that is about even with the chains on the first pitch of Pooh Corner.

You could rap off of the ring on the chockstone, but it would be a tight squeeze. You would be better off scrambling down up and over to the left.


Hexes and cams up to a couple of inches can be placed in the cracks running all over the left hand side. There are a couple of runners with a ring thrown over the horn of the chockstone to set up a top rope.

Photos of Black Starr Chimney Slideshow Add Photo
Exiting around the chockstone.
Exiting around the chockstone.
Looking South from the top.
Looking South from the top.
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