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Superratic Pillar
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Black Slabbath 

YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Equipped by Joe Kinder, cleaning and FA by Kevin Wilkinson
Page Views: 72
Submitted By: Craig Faulhaber on Aug 11, 2013
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Shoes sticking to the slanted boulder at the base ...

Description 

This strangely appealing slabby face climb is difficult right off the ground. Very very thin climbing with surprisingly good clipping stances gets you to a little pocket (that feels like the biggest jug in the world) around bolt 5. Easier climbing including some dirty holds leads to the anchors.

Not the most comfortable belay from up in the insect corner (or from the slanted boulder). You might consider walking down a bit and belaying from below.

This route gets 12+ in the guidebook. I'm guessing 12b... maybe c.


Location 

Immediately to the left of the warm-ups in the insect corner is a black, blank-looking, just less than vertical face above a slanted boulder.


Protection 

Bring 7 draws +2 for anchors



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