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Black Slabbath 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Chris Smith
Page Views: 1,080
Submitted By: BrianWinslow on Aug 22, 2007
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Description 

Underneath the huge overhang of Giant Man, there is a highly featured slab with a few bolt lines up it. Black Slabbath climbs the right most bolt line up the, you guessed it, black slab. As you would exspect, the route is balancy and the holds are pretty small and directionally dependant. The climbing is really good and a bit challenging. The route Hot Head (5.10c) does climb up above this so take care if people are struggling above you as you near the anchors, or if they are not paying attention when lowering off. This route is a good warm up for the harder lines at the crag as it's technical and will stretch you out a bit, and just a worthwhile route while you are hanging around.


Location 

The rightmost route on the slab below the Giant Man roof.


Protection 

7 bolts to Lower Offs



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By Franz Buzawa
Aug 14, 2010

While this route does follow a line the runs below the upper section of Hot Head it should not be confused with the lower section of Hot Head (about 15 ft. to the left) which is also a great 5.8+/5.9.

The name Black Slabbath is also a bit misleading because the initial moves require pulling through a short overhanging section. In fact, I would say the crux is pulling through the overhang to the slab above (between the 2nd & 3rd bolts).