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Northwest Face
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Black Sheep T 
Fisherman's Elbow S 
Twice As Nice S 
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Black Sheep 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: EFR (1st pitch), Geir, Marcy, and Pippie (2nd pitch)
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 330
Submitted By: Geir on Aug 8, 2011

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Closed to climbing, March 15-June 30 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Two pitch climb on the west face of the Fortress.

1) Climb up a short section clean rock that arches to the right. Continue up the knobby slab with two bolts. Belay at a bolted anchor about 5 feet left of the prominent black water streak. 5.8 PG13, 100'. (Marcy and I learned that EFR had previously soloed this pitch and he was fine with leaving the fixed hardware we placed.)

2) Climb up the left side of the water streak. The gear is a bit tricky in places. At the top of the water streak bear right to a ledge and belay on gear. Make sure to wait until the streak has dried if there has been recent rain. 5.10, 100'.

Scramble up toward a dead tree to a large ledge (4th class) and finish on the final pitch of Fisherman's Elbow.


Location 

The climb is on the west face of the Fortress. From the approach trail head downhill along the right side of the Fortress. Locate the large black water streak on the right side of the west face. The first pitch begins below the streak.


Protection 

Stoppers, singles to 4", doubles of medium cams.



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