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The Old Settler
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Black September T 
Central Peak - West Buttress (Down/Duck) T 
Complete Northwest Ridge T 
Contact Zone, The T 
Duck a L'Orange T 
East Buttress of the South Peak T 
Mars Western T 
South to North Traverse T 
Standard Route T 
Totally Spurious T 
Watchman's (Northeast) Ridge T 
West Buttress of the South Peak T 
West Couloir T 
West Face of the North Peak T 
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Black September 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 12 pitches, 1000', Grade IV
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: D. Brayshaw, J. Mason, Sept. 2006
Season: spring-fall
Page Views: 236
Submitted By: Dru on Mar 16, 2009

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Jesse and Drew on p. 9, the horizontal knife-edge ...

Gates may be closed. MORE INFO >>>


This route climbs a slender buttress on the south rib of the central peak, between Duck a L'orange and Contact Zone. Begin across the gully (left of) the start of the West Buttress of the South Peak and climb polished rock with solid cracks for a pitch (5.8, same first pitch as D a L'O) to a ledge. Climb another 5.8 pitch staying right of D a L'O, along the arete above (left of) a gully. Cross the gully on the third pitch to an airy belay. Continue straight up from here for 6 pitches up to 5.10- along a blunt arete. The crux is a right-facing layback corner to a undercling roof. The last pitch of this section is a horizontal knife-edge arete. The end of the horizontal arete butts into an upper headwall that is steep and blank. Move into a left-tending gully and follow it for a pitch (runout, low-5th), then climb two final pitches up the left wall of the gully to a slopy exit around a chockstone.


To descend, downclimb or rappel (4th class, 60m) north from the west-central summit into a sandy col between the central and north summit. This is the top of the 3rd class scrambling route up the Settler. Follow the sandy ramp down steeply across the west face of the north peak to gain talus below the face (much 3rd class, gritty sand on slabs and some snow in early season) then descend talus 1500' to the lake and out. Expect an all day climb.


Full rack with emphasis on small nuts and hand-size cams. No fixed pro.

Photos of Black September Slideshow Add Photo
J and D on pitch 2 of Black September during the f...
J and D on pitch 2 of Black September during the f...

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