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Start to the right of Johnson Route. Follow the obvious rough rock up and over the notch in the overhang. For the harder version use the left to the two bolts and continue [straight] up to the two bolt [anchor]. It is easier to clip the right of the two bolts and go right using the flakes to haul on, [anchor] on the mismatched bolts while standing on a good ledge. The second pitch follows the flakes up to the top of the rock. Set up [anchor] using a small pine tree.
[Per S. Green: Pitch 1 begins just right of "The Johnson Route" and climbs up right along a shallow arch then back left on a steep slab to a 2-bolt anchor on a ledge. 4 bolts. Pitch 2 climbs the slab above past a couple bolts and 5.8 moves to the cliff-top. Walk-off descent.]
About 6 draws for the first pitch and 4-5 for the second.
Myong finds her way over the roof.
|Comments on Black Science
|By Adam Hicks`|
May 11, 2003
Now, every route is different than every other, and every area likewise, but if we're opting to call the Johnson Route .10d, then the grade given to this route might be re-investigated. To me, it felt vastly easier than the Johnson route, to the point where I'd even opt to call it a .9+. In saying this, I realize how many people that climb hard .9 who might think otherwise of this climb, and in fact so would I. What I mean in labelling this climb as a hard .9 is that it is at least a grade under The Johnson Route. Therefore (thus, ergot,...), if The Johnson Route is labelled in some guidebooks as .11a then I have no problem calling this route .10a/b. Of course, routes here all felt harder than most at the same grade. I think this might owe itself to the polished nature of slab climbing in this area: fun, but funky...boy are my calves tired!
|By Bill Olszewski|
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jun 25, 2010
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b
Pulling the roof was real easy, maybe 5.8. But this climb gets its rating from the tricky slab moves, following and surmounting the arch, imho. Good fun!