Black Rose 5.10d
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Description This route is the original Black Rose. It was restored by John Ross in October 2007 using the original four bolt holes. It was chopped many years ago, becoming a casualty of a dispute between two climbers. Note that the line named Black Rose in the Ruckman guide is not the original line.
The route starts on the right side of a small bulge at the base of the slab. After getting to the top of the small bulge you clip the first bolt (14' up) and then climb through the first crux. Thin hands and thinner feet make for some tenuous moves to slightly more positive handholds, and finally your feet are on something slightly resembling a hold. (As a side note, the ripples appearing in the photo form some of the almost-holds; the ripples are a remnant of the ancient beaches from which the Rock Canyon quartzite was formed).
Clip the second bolt and the real business starts. Slopey feet, single finger holds and slopers for the hands lead to clipping the third bolt. After the clip heave a sigh of relief (but not too deeply) as you strive to reach more positive territory after another couple of moves. The hard part is over. Continue on positive edges, clip the fourth bolt and then bear right toward the anchor.
An alternate start is possible in the crack at the bottom left of the slab. The first bolt is a stretch but can be reached and clipped. However, the alternate start doesn't avoid the crux, which is after the second bolt.
Rock Canyon Loremaster Darren Knezek told me that this was originally rated 5.10d by the FA party; he thought he remembered it might even be a little harder.
The base of the slab was changed by quarrying in 2003. The routes on the slab used to start on a boulder. See here for a photo from before the quarrying.
Location The semi-detached slab at the left of the Black Rose area contains this route and A Rose is a Rose (and every square inch has been climbed on top rope). This route starts at the right side of the slight bulge at the base of the slab and follows the line of four bolts.
Protection 4 bolts to chain anchors.
John Ross on Black Rose, wondering if the...
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John Ross at the crux of Black Rose.
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By Darren Knezek
Nov 1, 2007
| The funny thing about the dispute was that neither of the two climbers ever led or redpointed the climb (as far as I know) and neither of them were involved in the FA or knew the first ascentionists. The route was FA'd in the late 1970's or early 1980's, (I'll have to check my old guidebook.) and the fellows involved in the chopping were around 1995. |
By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
May 21, 2008
| I am told that the route changed exact locations as well. When I did this, I climbed way over on the left arete (but stil the slab). But now the bolts go almost right up the middle. I asked around and I'm told that the current route is where the route was originally done. What did I get on? |
By Christopher Sorensen
From: Provo, UT
Apr 21, 2009
rating: 5.10d
| I thought this route was a ton of fun, actually. There are some tricky spots with just little pockets for your fingers and I had to smear a lot(you might not have to) and it was challenging and enjoyable. Even if it's above your grade (it's above mine) still give it a go, it forces you to use a lot of skills that easier climbs don't. |
By Brandon Bishoff
From: Austin, TX
May 25, 2011
rating: 5.10d
| I don't know a lot about bolting, but I would love a lower bolt before the first one. The start was one of the cruxes for me, and a fall while trying to get to first bolt would be a horrible, scraping affair.
Bring a stick clip if you've got one because it will make the start a whole lot more comfortable. After that, great thought provoking climbing with a fun smeary crux on single finger handholds. |
By John Ross
From: Salt Lake City, UT
May 26, 2011
rating: 5.10d
| A lower bolt is unnecessary. There is a decent landing at the bottom (thanks Perin!) and you can stick clip the first bolt if you feel the need. Yeah getting to the first bold is challenging but is apart of what makes this route what it is...gives it personality. Makes you a better climber too! |
By Rob Job
From: Provo, UT
May 11, 2012
| I suck it up on slabs so I thought this was harder than black magic woman. |
By Canyon Copa
Jun 1, 2012
| You definitely have to be comfortable at this grade to lead it, otherwise just getting to the first bolt is going to throw you off. Really small crimps are there for one or two fingers most of the route and a lot of dime edges for you feet. It just takes some searching since it's not super chalked up. |
By Horace Honkenstine
Oct 3, 2012
| This route probably feels more sketchy than it actually is. The small, slopey holds at the crux require a lot of foot-trusting and commitment. |
By AdamHardy
From: Provo, UT
Oct 9, 2012
| STICK CLIP! If this is at the margin of your abilities like it is mine, the moves over the bulge up to the first bolt are sketch. |
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