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Black Rocks

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Shady Side 
Shady Side West 
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Black Rocks  


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Location: 37.155, -113.6072 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 53,645
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Guy H. on Oct 28, 2004
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Popular toproping area with a minimal approach. C...

Closed March 15 through June 30 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

These short, black, basalt walls are located very close to town. A warm micro environment on otherwise cold, sunny, winter days, the area is quite popular.

The area was developed with bolted sport lines in the mid-nineties by Tupper and Goss, but trad lines were done as early as the late eighties by Olvesky.

The routes are easily divided into a southeast-facing Sunny Side and a northwest-facing Shady Side.

The majority of the routes on the Sunny Side are in the 5.8 to 5.10 range. The Shady Side routes range from 5.8 to 5.13, with the largest number in the 5.10 range.

This is a great place after a big rain when all of the area's sandstone is wet, and when it is cold out.

Getting There 

From downtown Saint George, drive north on Bluff Street (don't turn left towards Santa Clara). Drive approximately 1.5 miles past the turn to Snow Canyon State Park, passing the parking area for the Chuckawalla trailhead on the left.

Park here and walk north on the bike trail a hundred feet or so, then branch left onto the canyon trail. The trail crosses a fence with a tortoise barrier.

Climbing Season



Weather station 4.0 miles from here

58 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',13],['2 Stars',33],['1 Star',11],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',5],['5.8',5],['5.9',12],['5.10',27],['5.11',6],['5.12',3],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Black Rocks:
Petrophyte    5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 40'   Shady Side
Objective Reality   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 35'   Sunny Side
The Stem From Heck   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'   Shady Side
Keystone Arete   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 40'   Sunny Side
Moses Had a Stick Clip   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Sunny Side
Welcome to Black Rocks   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 50'   Shady Side
Extinction   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Shady Side
Galactic Cannibalism   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Sunny Side
Lunar Orbit   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 35'   Sunny Side
The Beginning    5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 40'   Shady Side
Mickey Mantle   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 35'   Sunny Side
Dark Matter   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 40'   Sunny Side
Oh My Hell   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Sunny Side
What Was I Thinking   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 50'   Shady Side
Event Horizon   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 40'   Shady Side
Black Friday   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 35'   Sunny Side
Gravitational Attraction   5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Sunny Side
Flying off the Handle   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport   Shady Side
Slap Happy   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Shady Side
Browse More Classics in Black Rocks

Featured Route For Black Rocks
Off the Handle 12b and Jumping to conclusions 12c ...

Flying off the Handle 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b  UT : Saint George : ... : Shady Side
Amazing basalt climbing through very technical crimps pockets slopers and side pulls. Great crimper crux to chains!...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Photos of Black Rocks Slideshow Add Photo
shady side
shady side
black rocks
black rocks
sunny side
sunny side
sunny side and shady side
sunny side and shady side
the sunny side... in late December
the sunny side... in late December

Comments on Black Rocks Add Comment
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By Matt McMurray
From: Castle Rock, CO
Jan 18, 2007
Is it possible to divide this area into the sunny side and shady side, and then group the routes accordingly? It would make it a lot easier for users to plan a trip (rather than looking at every route to determine where it is).

I sure wish these cliffs were taller...

MM
By DanielRich
Nov 19, 2008
I was curious, alot of these routes need slings to toprope. Does anyone know how long the slings need to be?

I was planning a road trip to visit some relatives in st. george and wanted to take some of them climbing while I was there.
By Fett
Nov 8, 2009
I find it strange that people complain about bolted cracks at Crawdad but not here. Seems like the same set up as Crawdad except the fact that you have to pay to climb in Crawdad. Both places are still fun to climb, love the sic nar pockets.
By Matthew Oliver
From: Salt Lake City
Feb 29, 2012
I have not seen anyone mention that this crag is closed from mid March to June 30th every year due to desert wildlife conservation (Desert Tortoise). If you are planning a trip in the spring, count Black Rocks out.
By Chris Celani
From: Ivins, Utah
Jul 25, 2012
Best bet is to use a four foot sling, but you may still get a little rope ware do to some of the angles.
By Natalie Rose
Nov 22, 2012
Just a word about climbing etiquette: if draws are left up on a climb, they haven't been abandoned, and it does not mean you are entitled to take them. I came back the next day and my draws had been taken off 'Flying off the Handle.' I walked over to the sunny side and asked a group, and they immediately gave them back and said I shouldn't leave my draws in such a popular area. I know you run the risk of getting draws stolen when you leave them up, (in this case it was overnight) but if you take them, it is still stealing. Feel free to use them, but don't steal them. Fun climb! Great work to the gumbie who made it to the top in efforts of stealing on thanksgiving day!