| Black River Falls |
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Jay on the Cube, left arete problem. June or July...
Description Castle Mounds State Park in Black River Falls has great variety of good bullet hard sandstone boulders. People have been bouldering here for a long time. In the late 80's and early 90's Dave Groth and company developed many of the now classic problems. Climbing access to the park is questionable. I've never run into any trouble with park personnel, but it is always a good idea to be respectful and considerate of state parks and tread lightly. Best time to climb is in spring or fall (all WI), but all year can be good.
Getting There From I-94 exit at B.R.F. onto HWY 54. head west for a couple miles till you reach HWY 27. Head south on 27 until you reach HWY 12 east. Turn left here and the park is just up the road on the right. Park, and hike to the Overlook Point. Boulders are scattered near overlook.
The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Black River Falls:
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Featured Route For Black River Falls
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| Comments on Black River Falls |
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By Remo From: Madison, WI Jul 1, 2007
| If anyone knows FA's or grades for any of the problems here, do share. I've been climbing here for roughly 10 years and I don't know all the history. |
By EB From: Winona Jul 23, 2007
| Nice work Remo, BRF has some of the best stone in the state. The park seems to have a dont ask, dont tell policy on climbing. So few people visit the park that climbers presence isn't really noticed. One of the more esthetic places to climb in the state as well. |
By TravisK From: Madison Oct 17, 2010
| There has been some development happening at least in the last 6 months. - chalk right of Penguin Boulder. If anyone knows about these problems, please post! - TR(/Trad?) climb just up the trail from the Cube and Penguin boulders. On the left, just after short prow on the trail (just under the overlook point). Featureless wall until about halfway up, then there is a decent roof. - met a few climbers a couple weeks ago developing some problems no more than 50 feet further up the trail from the cube. I'll try and get out in the next week or 2 and snap some photos of areas. |
By EB From: Winona Nov 1, 2010
| Travis, we have been developing a bunch of new stuff at BRF. The problems we have been working on range from super hard(Porcelain wall traverse- to pretty easy/but nonetheless good) We plan on being out there friday if you want to join- the temps are fantastic this week. Were you out there with a female climbing on the maneater? We'd be happy to give you the tour some time. Cheers. |
By Alec Carraux From: Holmen, WI Nov 4, 2010
| Hey guys, I'm fairly new to climbing but i've been trying to get out here every weekend or so. I recently came across a line that I didn't recognize just off the trail about 100ft back from The Cube, slightly downhill. It's a face about 30 high (faces down the hill) with a large crack running up it. I'll go out and take some pictures of it this weekend and get your input on it. So far I haven't seen anything about it on this website. |
By EB From: Winona Nov 4, 2010
| Sounds like the south face of the 4th house boulder. Dave G. and crew I'm sure sent most lines on it, However we,ve started working on a traverse of the whole thing that is really good, not sure if they got to that though. Regardless there's much to be sent still there. Hopefully tomarrow will be a day t clean a bunch up. |
By Alec Carraux From: Holmen, WI Nov 4, 2010
| Now that I look at it, yeah, that looks like what we were working on. I'm trying to get out there this weekend so if you guys set up some new routes, i'd love to see them. |
By TravisK From: Madison Nov 9, 2010
| EB, yeah that was me climbing on Maneater a couple weekends ago. I'd love to see the tour sometime but it looks like this weekend might be rainy... Anyhow, I'll be out whenever possible until the snow falls (and then I'll get restless and shovel out some of the boulders and climb anyways) |
By EB From: Winona Nov 9, 2010
| Travis, we'll be hanging out there a bunch over the next few weeks; a bunch of projects to get done! But this is THE season, we only get about four weeks a year of premo conditions from mid-nov to mid-dec. We have been talking a bout having a bouldering gathering there in a few weeks, I'll keep you posted. |
By TravisK From: Madison Nov 11, 2010
| Definitely. I'll make of point of getting down there with some friends soon. |
By nicros fivten Nov 19, 2010
| Is anyone climbing there this weekend? I would love to get down there and check it out. I am thinking Saturday November 20th... Drop me a line nic@nicros.com if you are going to be around. |
By nicros fivten Nov 24, 2010
| Anyone up for a sesh this weekend? I need to get out here... Hit me up nic@nicros.com |
By EB From: Winona Nov 24, 2010
| Next week. a bunch will be there to celebrate hopefully not, the end of he season and hopefully send the last of the projects! Sat. Night fire/cookout/storytellin'.... All are welcome. Come raise a glass to a great year and those who have fallen |
By Scott Thalacker From: Logan, UT Apr 8, 2011
| On the condition report, I went out earlier this week. Not as muddy as I'd thought it would be. There are human made things attached to the rock on the overlook area. For example, giant staircases and a metal platform, among other things. Anybody know who is responsible for these? PM me? We should be careful about this... |
By Chris treggE Administrator From: Madison, WI Apr 8, 2011
| Careful? How do you mean? It's state land, and a state forest campground right there. I suppose the DNR looks after the lookout tower and stuff. |
By Scott Thalacker From: Logan, UT Apr 9, 2011
| I'm particularly interested in the 'other things'. Anybody who knows what I'm talking about? |
By Chris treggE Administrator From: Madison, WI Apr 9, 2011
| Ah. I will respond by email. Sorry. |
By Sam Daley From: Minneapolis, Minnesota Oct 9, 2011
| In the "getting there" you head East not West. |
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