Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft (18 m)
FA: First Lead: Pete Cleveland
Page Views: 1,991 total · 8/month
Shared By: James Schroeder on Mar 23, 2003
Admins: Ian Cotter-Brown, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge, Ben Strobel

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Description Suggest change

Black Rib is an archetypal Devil's Lake face climb and considered one of the benchmarks for the 5.11a grade (at least according to the Swartling guides and tall climbers in possession of a healthy positive apex) in the park. Black Rib uses big reaches to link thin, yet positive edges on its namesake feature. That feature is a black-stained, arete-like protrusion that is imperceptibly less-than vertical. Black Rib is a beautiful and obvious line that will undoubtedly both please the eye and draw the attention of true connoisseurs.

Black Rib is archetypal to Devil's Lake in another, less-inspiring way; it has rules. For full-credit the aspiring ascensionist must start "in the pit" just downhill and right from the feature itself. Starting from the obvious block avoids several difficult (perhaps crux) moves and will certainly draw the ire of the route police. Route police notwithstanding, a partial-credit ascent starting from the block is still a worthy and rewarding consolation prize. Finish in the hanging chimney above the rib proper.

All-told, Black Rib is an excellent route, and should be on the to-do list of all climbers pursuing the 5.11 grade.

Location Suggest change

Black Rib is the obvious water-streaked protrusion on the SW face of 09: Many Pines Buttress about halfway between the obvious gash of Michael's Project and the cleft hiding Sewing Machine.

Protection Suggest change

Despite having been led and soloed in the past, most climbers will opt for the security of a top rope given the combined lack of solid protection and insecure climbing on this route.

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