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Alice Rock
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Alice in Wonderjam 
Black Rabbit 
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White Rabbit 

Black Rabbit 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Todd Gordon, Brian Elliot, Cyndie Bransford & Beth Renn, 1995
Page Views: 765
Submitted By: Murf on Jan 1, 2005
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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BETA PHOTO: Black Rabbit

Description 

Good positioning on arete with positive hands leads to a pure slab finish. The rock is a little grainy, but not too bad.


Protection 

Four bolts, 2 bolt anchor/rap



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By C Miller
Administrator
Dec 13, 2004
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

A fun and worthwhile route to do once the somewhat unpleasant approach is done. A more enjoyable route than White Rabbit with more interesting moves and position and far better protection.

By outdooreric
From: Lyons, CO
Mar 14, 2007

Where is this climb? Its not listed in my 1992 Vogel guide.

By C Miller
Administrator
Mar 14, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

It's on the arete 15' right of White Rabbit. Fun climb.

By shelby beardslee
From: 29 Palms, CA
Jan 29, 2012

All bolts on this have been replaced today along with a nice new anchor.

By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
Jan 30, 2012

^^^^^

So you added a bolt anchor??? What about the pro to 4 and the walkoff?

By Richard Shore
Jan 30, 2012

It would take more time to thread the rope through new rap anchors than do the 10 second walkoff.

By toddgordon
From: Joshua Tree, California
Jan 30, 2012

Sport climbs can have sport anchors. I did the FA, and I approve this anchor...(do I sound like a politician..?...). The new "green" enviro-correct be-nice-to-nature is;....climb up, rap down. Walk offs create trails from the back of the crag back to your pack......and (most importantly...)....the new anchor gets you back to your beer faster;....(can't argue that...) I did not place this anchor, but I'm fully OK with it..and gave permission to the fine gentlemen who so kindly made this route safer for us;....now that the wishes and blessings of the FA party are out in the open, hopefully the climbing community can be OK with this too. No disrespect implied, just respect for those who do new routes and those who, with their own hard work and free time, replace our knucklehead 1/4" bolts (oopss....). Thanks in advance for understanding, and thanks for the new safe bolts.....(and...no;...not all climbs need convience anchors;.....I just like them on the sport climbs that I establish...and I believe that the paths climbers create through the desert can be lessened by the climb up/come down system.)....Much respect to R.Walling as usual, and much respect to R. Shore for banging out the routes in a place he obviously loves, respects, and frequents........

By Bob Gaines
Jan 30, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

Thanks Todd, for authorizing that, and thanks to the bolt replacers for their hard work and effort....it's not exactly the easiest place to get to. The new anchor is a definite upgrade. I remember leading the climb, and downclimbing 15 feet down the backside to get solid gear to rig a TR.

It's a rarely visited spot with 4 great climbs, and the new bolts and anchor are a nice upgrade by experienced locals who know what they're doing and who have devoted much time and energy into replacing hundreds of Josh's aging bolts. It's a safer and higher quality experience now.

A better approach may be to ascend the hillside a few hundred yards to the right (where there are no boulder piles) then traverse left along the ridgetop, then drop down to the area. That's the way I descended the last time I was up there and it seemed like a much easier deal.

By Tradoholic
Dec 20, 2013

Solid fun, using the arete at the top is easier. The anchor is a good edition.