Black President 

The first crux seems somewhat height dependent, the taller you are the easier it is. The upper crux definately seemed harder than the first.

OK, OK, BP is three stars!! I'm more of a 5 star guy. This 3 star system is *way* too restrictive to me. I don't think there should be many 5 star climbs ( obviously ), so only the very best would have the max. I'd give BP 4 of 5 and 3 of 3.

I agree with the idea that the three star system is less than desirable. The use of a 5 star is "mo betta."

My take on the star system. Randy V. uses a five star system. Mike M uses three. Each in my eyes gets the point across. I think I will put my own guide together and my own star system. I am going to use a 30 star system.

Is it called black president because its soooo funky? Or just because the crux seems improbable.
cool route kinda stout for 10 plus eh.

Single 70m rope will just reach on rap. Agree with Murf, the first crux is height dependent, if you're under 5'8" or so, this would be really rough. Beware the molina if you're belaying, I impaled myself on the thing. Great climbing, long pitch for Josh at 35 meters.

I did this climb day before yesterday, 12/13/08. Actually I was out there mid week as well with Ryan Mattock, but I hosed myself by plugging the last jam with a red camalot thinking I was going to pull the exit on face holds. Bad idea. Went back and hiked it on Sat. Best to just gun the exit with solid gear below. Especially with 120 feet of rope hanging below, that one last clip could be a deal breaker.

I do think that pushing the grade above 5.10d is a bit inflationary. Some Josh .11a’s which I think are a bit tougher are Bendix Claws, Crime of the Century, Coarse and buggy, Natural Selection and Winds of Woopee… And is The Importance of Being Ernest (at .10c/d) any easier? The first crux is definitely height dependent though…

The last time I did this one previously was about 10 years ago, with Jim Bridwell and Rachel McCollum. A day to remember for sure. It looks to me like this place sees less traffic today than back then…

So after hanging you go back a few days later and send it and grade it .10d? I don't know, sounds like an .11a onsite grade to me, especially since the crux for you (like me) seemed to be the upper crack.

Hi Murf...

What happenned to me didn't have as much to do with the difficulty as my own foolishness. Anyway, we all know how subjective these things are. What do you think of my comparisons though?

Pretty good... lets spray about it here mountainproject.com/v/southern_california/put_the_following_>>>

Is the most expedient approach made through the vegetated wash south of Diarrhea dome and southwest of the Elephant Arches formation itself? It was definitely one of the harder approaches I've experienced in Joshua Tree. Also, prickly pear cactus: 1; Rope: 0.

Drewsky,


having done it both ways, I'd suggest turning in around Gumby Dome, which when heading towards the Elephants would be on your left. Beyond an initial mini scramble at the beginning, the approach is fast and flat.

I named the Route the Black President from inspiration from Fela Kuti form Nigeria, and his album named Black President

Super great album, afro-beat, which is African Reggae