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Black Powder 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 180'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: John Kelbel & Dominic Albanese 9/11/10
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 506
Submitted By: John Kelbel on Aug 5, 2012

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BETA PHOTO: Black Powder
route topo

Description 

Named for the historical Federal Arsenal at Harpers Ferry.

Variation: Recommended first pitch is "Fuse 5.9-" located in the adjacent area of "ABC Ramps" and not shown in the topo on this page.

1. Climb the first pitch of “C Ramp” mashing down the sticker bush step up into the corner and follow it to the ramp approximately 20’ above. About 1/3 the way up the ramp, stop at the beginning of a black wall (main wall on left) with some small overhangs.

2. Start right of the small overhangs and step up and left into the crack system above the overhangs. Follow the right leaning crack line. At the small overhang move around its right side being careful of a little loose rock. Continue up the crack line to the top of the orange rock with a white streak, placing gear high with a long sling traverse out left about 10’ to more gear. Head up over a small overhang angling right, aiming for the right side of the alcove / cave.

3. Scramble out the right side of the cave step over the exposed gap and climb over an exposed boulder. Head up the steep hill side to a good tree and belay. There is some loose rock here and vegetation for critters to hang out in, it’s recommended to rope up for this exposed scramble.


Location 

Head up the trail aiming for the sign. Scramble up the narrow gully underneath the sign and formed by the large left facing corner. The climb starts at the back of this corner which is at the lower right end of the ramp leading to “Hard Up Direct”.


Protection 

Standard Rack, a #4 Camalot would be useful in the wide crack below the orange wall. To scope out the route from the ground the orange spot with the white streak stands out and will locate the climb for you. The Orange spot is roughly 50 feet to the right of the bottom of the sign.



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Black Powder <br />pitch 2 detail topo
BETA PHOTO: Black Powder
pitch 2 detail topo
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