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Routes in Black Orpheus Amphitheater
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Administrative Overreach T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Black Baby T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Black Ops T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Black Orpheus T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Black Widow, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Eurydice T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Fortress of Xanadu, The T 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Howl's Moving Castle T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Marijuana T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Offset Corners T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Plate of Fate T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Secret World of Arrietty, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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There and Back Again T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Tuscarora T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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| Type: | Trad, 260 ft (79 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | FA: Unknown.FFA: Joshua Janes w/ K. McCullough, C. Galitsky (w/ special thanks to M. Ward & D. Sorric) - Winter, 2012 |
| Page Views: | 1,537 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Josh Janes on Dec 22, 2012 |
| Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc, Justin Johnsen |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
About 100 yards left of Plate of Fate is a long, shallow, white, right-facing corner. Another 20' further left is a low roof. Begin below an oven-sized inset in this roof.
P1: A great warmup. Climb easy rock up to the inset in the roof, arranging overhead pro and pulling the roof on a solid hand jam. From here, continue up the varnished face following a seam that affords spaced but excellent pro, eventually reaching a stance on a small ledge. Arrange more pro here and move off to the right to easy climbing on softer rock. Continue up for another 75' to a belay under the arch being careful of hollow holds on the last stretch. The white corner to the right of this pitch has also been climbed and leads to the same spot. 5.10a, 180'.
P2: A wild pitch. Climb up and right off the belay and pinch and sidepull a unique tufa-like flake up the 45 degree headwall. At an incut (crucial Yellow, Green, and/or Blue Aliens in a horizontal) fingertip traverse right to a few powerful moves up to huge incut jugs and more pro. Indulge the temptation to cut the feet free and campus - a hand jam "rest" may or may not prevent total forearm annihilation. Eventually pull onto the low angle face above and work easily up this finding a spot to belay just before gaining the Painted Bowl. 5.12a, 80'.
Three raps down Plate of Fate with a single 70 or a stretchy 60.
P1: A great warmup. Climb easy rock up to the inset in the roof, arranging overhead pro and pulling the roof on a solid hand jam. From here, continue up the varnished face following a seam that affords spaced but excellent pro, eventually reaching a stance on a small ledge. Arrange more pro here and move off to the right to easy climbing on softer rock. Continue up for another 75' to a belay under the arch being careful of hollow holds on the last stretch. The white corner to the right of this pitch has also been climbed and leads to the same spot. 5.10a, 180'.
P2: A wild pitch. Climb up and right off the belay and pinch and sidepull a unique tufa-like flake up the 45 degree headwall. At an incut (crucial Yellow, Green, and/or Blue Aliens in a horizontal) fingertip traverse right to a few powerful moves up to huge incut jugs and more pro. Indulge the temptation to cut the feet free and campus - a hand jam "rest" may or may not prevent total forearm annihilation. Eventually pull onto the low angle face above and work easily up this finding a spot to belay just before gaining the Painted Bowl. 5.12a, 80'.
Three raps down Plate of Fate with a single 70 or a stretchy 60.
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