|Black Orpheus Amphitheater
About 100 yards left of Plate of Fate is a long, shallow, white, right-facing corner. Another 20' further left is a low roof. Begin below an oven-sized inset in this roof.
P1: A great warmup. Climb easy rock up to the inset in the roof, arranging overhead pro and pulling the roof on a solid hand jam. From here, continue up the varnished face following a seam that affords spaced but excellent pro, eventually reaching a stance on a small ledge. Arrange more pro here and move off to the right to easy climbing on softer rock. Continue up for another 75' to a belay under the arch being careful of hollow holds on the last stretch. The white corner to the right of this pitch has also been climbed and leads to the same spot. 5.10a, 180'.
P2: A wild pitch. Climb up and right off the belay and pinch and sidepull a unique tufa-like flake up the 45 degree headwall. At an incut (crucial Yellow, Green, and/or Blue Aliens in a horizontal) fingertip traverse right to a few powerful moves up to huge incut jugs and more pro. Indulge the temptation to cut the feet free and campus - a hand jam "rest" may or may not prevent total forearm annihilation. Eventually pull onto the low angle face above and work easily up this finding a spot to belay just before gaining the Painted Bowl. 5.12a, 80'.
Three raps down Plate of Fate with a single 70 or a stretchy 60.
Single set from small to #2 Camalot with doubles from small to 1". Wires. Aliens or other small, flexible cams are key to protect the crux.
|By Shawn Cook|
Dec 18, 2013
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Short bouldery crux. Not a classic, but if you like steep bouldery trad climbing this ones for you. Gear and Grade is right on.