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 ADVANCED
Lower Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Boy and His ArÍte T 
Beer Can Direct S 
Black Magic T 
Black Opal T 
Black Pyre T 
Blue Wind T 
Crown Royal T 
Farce T 
For Real Crack T 
Groove, The T 
Hemorroids in Flight T 
Jailbreak (variation) T,TR 
Novitiate's Nightmare T 
Pillar of Society S 
Sinbad-Herbert T 
Surrealistic Pillar T 
Surrealistic Pillar Direct T 
Wild Turkey T 

Black Opal 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 170'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 499
Submitted By: caughtinside on Nov 21, 2006

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Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Black opal starts as a couple of low angle flaring cracks, that moves up to a steep bulge with three vertical slashes in it (crux) to lower angle climbing up higher. It is left of Blue Wind, and right of Hemrhoids in Flight.

Location 

Part of the group of 4 climbs at the far right end of Lower Buttress. Identify it by the three vertical slashes on the bulge.

Protection 

standard rack. Offset gear, particularly hb offset nuts, are VERY helpful, as the cracks flare the entire way. Good gear is a challenge, but you can get it.


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By Tyson Waldron
From: Reno, NV
Apr 20, 2015

Description is spot on. We didn't have that offset nut, and it made the crux quite a bit more serious. An offset cam would be worthless here, you want the offset nut, a standard BD nut like we had, was... not inspiring. With that and the two other key small cam placements above it, this sequencey and sustained crux pros just fine, much better than the obnoxiously flared nature it appears from the ground. This route should, but probably never will, get climbed more.

As a side note, with a 70m, you can TR the other routes in this area by setting up an anchor near the top where you will find decent pro, and adjusting your directionals to whatever route you want to climb.
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