Black Market Organ Donor
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BETA PHOTO: See the two bulges way up there with the crack in ...
It appears that it is possible to approach the first bolt by either climbing up the left side of the spire on the sloppy looking holds or stemming on the right side the then reaching far out to the bolt. Starting on the left side is better and the holds are a more positive than they look. The technical crux comes slightly above the first bolt and involves an awkward balancy transition from the left to the right of the spire. From here good holds lead directly up to another bolt. Then the route becomes an easy (5.7ish) but scary run out ramp which approaches an overhanging bulge. From below the overhanging it is possible to lean back just slightly (be careful!) and reach a bolt up and on the right bulge. Once you clip this bolt, the physical crux is a small boulder problem to get over the bulge. Then the route proceeds up another easy ramp to the chains.
This climb starts in the main area to the right of the popular Jet Wind climb. It begins ascending directly up the spire but then transitions into a steep ramp that is difficult to see from the bottom.
There are around 4 of five bolts and good anchor chains. It is good to also have a few pieces of 1"-4" trad gear. From the bottom it appears like it might be possible to do with quickdraws alone, but when you are below the overhang and you are leaning backwards trying desperately to see where the next bolt is and your last draw is 20 feet below you, having gear will be nice.
Erik top-roping Black Market Organ Donor ...
From: Portland, Oregon
Aug 15, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Way hard of the left. I would use the right side option for the start.
By Nate Ball
From: Taipei, TW
Aug 29, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
I climbed this route 9/09 without trad pro. The crux is easily protected by clipping the bolt above the ledge/nook (where there is evidence of a raptor nest). The climb is run-out about 15-20 feet before and after this, but the climbing is, at a liberal estimation, 5.4. Starting on the left at the bottom seemed to me the most logical way to go. Just my opinion.