Black Mamba 5.11b/c
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11c [details] |
| FA: | Art Mooney, 1992 |
| Submitted By: | Chris Duca on Jul 20, 2007 |
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Ara Finlayson shows the boys how to properly send ...
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Description Don't get bitten by the venomous lure of this Orange Crush ultra-classic!
Move after move, Black Mamba requires the climber to call on a full repertoire of corner and face climbing technique. Additionally, the holds you are gunning for, save for a select few, are not so obvious, making the redpoint that more elusive.
Two cruxes are encountered: The first is at about mid-height with a couple of thin moves above your last bolt to a clipping stance. The second crux involves a high left foot, a credit card for your right hand and a hidden hold out left. And it just so happens to be while the first set of anchors are staring you right in the eyes!
Most people climb to the first set of anchors, but for more enduro testing you can move left after the first set of anchors and climb the left trending, and pumpy face for many more bolts. This extension adds similar climbing and makes the route a solid 11c.
Location At the bottom right end of the cliff is the prominent arete/right face of Prime Climb (another stellar and LOOOONG 11b). Black Mamba starts just to the left on top of a terrace looking feature.
Protection For the first pitch, 6 bolts and chains. The first bolt is somewhat hidden from view.
If you plan on continuing to the top in one pitch (recommended), bring at least 14 draws.
Casey cruisin' Black Mamba
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Lucas following his spirit wolf through the upper ...
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A Quebec'er climbing Black Mamba before driving ho...
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BETA PHOTO: Black Mamba
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By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Jul 20, 2007
| I think this might be the best 5.11 at Rumney. The climbing is interesting, sustained, and the route is pretty long. All in all, an excellent route, especially if you go to the top, as the best climbing is on the upper half. |
By Matt Ludwig
Sep 17, 2007
| Black mamba is good but Crusher is the best 5.11!!! |
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Sep 17, 2007
| Matt, distance must have warped your memory. Black Mamba has got to be waaay better than The Crusher. |
By Maurice Liddy
From: Plymouth, NH
Nov 27, 2007
rating: 5.11c
| No way, The Crusher rules! And distance hasnt warped my memory either :)
Black Mamba is superb all the same. |
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Nov 28, 2007
| Maurice, living in Arizona must skew your perspective. Evidently it's easy to forget what Rumney's all about.
The rock on the Crusher is not nearly as good as the pristine rock on Black Mamba. Black Mamba is also more sustained... |
By Matt Ludwig
Dec 17, 2007
| Jay, Jay, Jay....just drink the cool aid, 2 against 1..I don't see anyone else agreeing with you. |
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Dec 17, 2007
| Matt, I won't drink the cool aid...I won't drink the cool aid... |
By Hannah W
Jun 9, 2010
| Black Mamba was in rare early summer form last friday - it was dry (both parts)! I think the recent rain might have gotten it a little wet, but it is drying out early for sure. |
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Sep 15, 2011
| If going to the top (as you should) I suggest bringing a couple slings to use on the first belay and under the roof to eliminate drag. A few longer draws are good in spots too. |
By Tyson Miller
From: Lebanon, NH
Aug 23, 2012
rating: 5.11c/d
| It is helpful to back clean the bolt before the first anchor, and put a long draw/sling on the first anchor to not get terrible rope drag at the top. |
By Harrison Harb
From: Newmarket, NH
Nov 19, 2012
| is this normally dry? |
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Nov 19, 2012
| Usually in the summer and dry parts of the fall, but this section of the cliff often drips, especially above the first anchor. |
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