Type: | Sport, 30 ft (9 m) |
FA: | Mike Farnsworth |
Page Views: | 2,050 total · 15/month |
Shared By: | Mike Farnsworth on Dec 13, 2012 |
Admins: | Pat Goodman, Ray Weber |
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Access Issue: PRIVATELY OWNED PROPERTY
Details
This cliff line is on private property. If there are "NO TRESPASSING" signs up, and you choose to climb there, that's a personal choice. Attempts have been made to contact the landowner by the local climbing organization, but thus far, there has been no progress.
Description
NEW line as of 12/13/12.
This one will require some trickery!
Climb a very easy vertical face past one bolt (watch for a loose rock or two at the start), then punch it out the 10' dead horizontal roof. The route is essentially a bolted boulder problem. A single tight hands jam seemed mandatory, but this isn't the crack posted on rockclimbing(dot)com. I haven't been able to find that line. I'm not sure about the grade, but 12d seems fair. Climb it! I doubt you'll be disappointed!
This one will require some trickery!
Climb a very easy vertical face past one bolt (watch for a loose rock or two at the start), then punch it out the 10' dead horizontal roof. The route is essentially a bolted boulder problem. A single tight hands jam seemed mandatory, but this isn't the crack posted on rockclimbing(dot)com. I haven't been able to find that line. I'm not sure about the grade, but 12d seems fair. Climb it! I doubt you'll be disappointed!
Location
The general location is: right of Blood, Sweat, and Chalk, left of Castaways. The climb begins uphill and left from two routes of similar character (vertical with a small roof/overlap at midheight), one of which begins on a pedestal. Scramble up a small hill from these routes to reach the base under a large roof. There are two routes here. Black Magic is the left route that climbs straight out the center of the roof using a seam and 1' right facing corner.
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