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Steele
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Black Magic 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Curt Merchant?
Page Views: 363
Submitted By: Derek DeBruin on May 8, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Description 

Follows a thin crack to the roof above and escapes left to two-bolt anchor. Face climbing, using the crack for protection. Protection is non-existent for first 15 feet or so, and is small, but reasonable, throughout.

Note: Met Curt at the crag one day. He told me about this route. I don't remember if he was the first or second ascensionist. Please correct if you know.

Location 

On left side of Amphitheater. Starts on face to left of "Uncertain Return"/"Exit Stage Right," just to the right of "Jet Stream." Starts on edges below thin, vertical seam.

Protection 

Small gear. 1-inch piece nice towards the top.


Comments on Black Magic Add Comment
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By Br'er Rabbit
From: The Briar Patch
May 9, 2011
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13

The meat of the route....take lots of 00, 0, 1 TCUs or C3s...and lots of small to medium stoppers if leading.

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By Jamie S.
From: Gold River, CA
Feb 8, 2012

Les Hutchison freed it, Mark Henley followed. WCounty Friends made the start do-able as it has a flare near the bottom and it would be difficult to lead w/o getting that in for pro.