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Black Magic Boulder
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Black Magic 
Naked 
Wicca Warrior 

Black Magic 

Hueco: V3 Font: 6A R

   
Type:  Boulder, 20'
Consensus:  Hueco: V3 Font: 6A [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,841
Submitted By: Euan Cameron on Dec 27, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (26)
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Pulling through the easy section of Black Magic.

Description 

Climb directly up the middle of the tall slabby face until the break at 3/4 height. Take a breath and continue up passing a good pocket to the top.

It's tall, but with good technique not too tricky.

Location 

Middle of the SW face

Protection 

Pads and spotters


Photos of Black Magic Slideshow Add Photo
Black Magic Boulder Topo
BETA PHOTO: Black Magic Boulder Topo
Starting out on Black Magic, V3 X
Starting out on Black Magic, V3 X
Starting the crux sequence of Black Magic, V3
Starting the crux sequence of Black Magic, V3
Thin but easier moves at the start.
Thin but easier moves at the start.
Pulling the easy finishing moves high of the deck ...
Pulling the easy finishing moves high of the deck ...
Enjoying the deep pockets at the end of the crux s...
Enjoying the deep pockets at the end of the crux s...
Topping out!
Topping out!

Comments on Black Magic Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jonathan Williams
From: Minneapolis
Mar 28, 2011
rating: V3 6A PG13

"X" rating here is a bit exaggerated. If you fell from the top, and put a pad on the rock, with a good spotter, you'd be fine.
By cbtacy
Aug 11, 2013
rating: V3 6A X

Would be R rated if the rock up high were not hollow rotting garbage.

That said - the climbing itself is great, the position is fantastic - and the problem is recommended. Just know how to climb on choss before you get on this.
By PrrdyLady
From: Riverside, CA
Nov 28, 2013

This boulder makes me look so small... What a fun climb though
By Andy Liu
From: Mammoth Lakes, CA
Feb 2, 2014