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Black Magic
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Black Magic 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

Type:  Sport, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Steve Gibb
Page Views: 1,098
Submitted By: Austin Lee on May 22, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>


The first sport route in American Fork Canyon.

Pockets to slopers on solid, dark limestone.


The third line from the right on the wall to the left of the cave mouth.

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By Tanner Wise
Nov 1, 2010

The first ascent belongs to Steve Gibb
By nathan williamson
Apr 30, 2013

Pocket after pocket after pocket on beautiful black limestone.
By bheller
From: SL UT
Jul 28, 2013
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

An absolute masterpiece! I'm 5' 10" and call it 12d. The crux demanded a deadpoint to a shallow two finger pocket from a small and powerful undercling. V6 boulder problem to 5.11 climbing on perfect stone. Sublime.

This climb follows the line of pockets in the obvious black rock.
By Jeremy Noring
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Jun 7, 2014
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

I'm 5' 7" with a +2 ape; this felt solidly hard. 12d might have even felt a bit sandbagged. Really hard pulling down low; a slab finish on spectacular rock through somewhat runout bolts. Easily one of the best routes in AF.
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