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Sunset South
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Black Magic 

YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b PG13

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Rob Robinson, Clint Henley, Peter Henley - 1981
Page Views: 505
Submitted By: bbrock on Jul 15, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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negotiating the start of the first pitch


First pitch- Up through overhanging blocks split by a crack. I bypassed all this nonsense by jug hauling to the right. Next part of the pitch is very dirty.

Second Pitch- From bolted anchors up and right over a roof on tough finger locks. I never saw a pin anywhere. Up blank face and under a perfect hand crack splitting a big roof. Jam and then jug haul to the top.

The second pitch is what you're doing this route for. Dont be detered by the dirty first pitch.


On the Black Magic Buttress; starts 30' right of Trailside Trials.


Up to #3 camalot. Small cams for start of second pitch

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second pitch
second pitch

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By American Dankster
From: Chattanooga
Feb 6, 2012

pitch 2 gets 4 stars. skip pitch one by going up to the treasure chest and crawling thru the hole. You will end up at the anchors to pitch one.