Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Rappel Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Baradur 
Bender-Axen 
Black Magic Woman 
Black Quacker 
Charadras 
Chiboni 
Chicken Sh*t Sandwich 
Corner, The 
Helm's Deep 
Lude 
Not So Easy Arch 
Other Way, The 
Quick Death 
Standard Route 
Voodoo Child 
Voodoo Child (direct start) 
Unsorted Routes:

Black Magic Woman 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 600'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: EFR & Steve Amter, 1986
Season: spring summer fall
Page Views: 529
Submitted By: Charles Vernon on Sep 24, 2011
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
BETA PHOTO: Stolen from Voodoo Child page. The leader is on VC...
  • Closed to climbing, March 15 - June 30 MORE INFO >>>
  • Closed to climbing, March 15-June 30 MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Black Magic Woman is one pitch of superb slab and face that parallels Voodoo Child high on rappel rock. Strictly speaking, the route is one pitch, but you have to climb several pitches to get there. Like SQL II says, this is easier that VC but more sustained. The feet are also a little gritty-it probably doesn't get much traffic. It's still a great pitch. Unlike VC, you need geir and there is hard climbing, possibly even 5.10+ climbing, that is gear-protected.

    From the shared belay with Voodoo Child, climb straight up the thin crack with tricky 5.10 moves and good gear. Clip into a pin (contrary to the SQL II topo, this pin comes before any of the bolts) and continue past 5 bolts with great cruxy moves and micro route-finding all over the place. The climbing finally eases as you near the 2-bolt anchor, which is also not shown on the SQL II topo.

    From this anchor, one more pitch (5.8ish) straight up past two bolts and over a fun roof to the chickenheads leads to the top.


    Location 

    Begins from the 2-bolt anchor that marks the start of Voodoo Child's crux pitch. This anchor is hidden (i.e. not visible from the notch at the top of the Obituary Column) in a corner just to the left of P3 of Black Quacker, about 1/2 way up that pitch.


    Protection 

    A set of small cams and small-medium stoppers (including large rps) will give options for the initial 5.10 thin crack. From the piton henceforth, 6 draws is sufficient. The bolts are a bit spaced in places but there is nothing to hit.



    Comments on Black Magic Woman Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Charles Vernon
    From: Tucson, AZ
    Sep 24, 2011

    I have misplaced SQL II and only remember that EFR did the route sometime in the '80s, but can't remember his partner. Maybe EFR could chime in, or I will update when I find the book.

    By JMayhew
    From: Tucson, AZ
    Sep 24, 2011

    SQL II says EFR and Steve Amter in 1986. For some reason I thought Bob Kerry was in on that, too, but EFR would know fer sure. (Never tried it in the snow!)

    By Steven Amter
    Nov 23, 2011

    This is to confirm that Eric and I did the route in 1986. We considered it a nice variation to Voodoo Child which people tended to do over and over.

    By Jimbo
    Nov 24, 2011

    Too bad it obscures the line of Voodoo Child. Just like EFR.

    By Charles Vernon
    From: Tucson, AZ
    Jun 5, 2012

    Funny comments. I don't get the impression that people are doing Voodoo Child "over and over" anymore.

    By Hendrixson
    Administrator
    From: Tucson, AZ
    Jun 5, 2012

    Amusing typo:

    "Unlike VC, you need geir and there is hard climbing, possibly even 5.10+ climbing, that is gear-protected."

    I probably would need Geir or another trad hard-man to rope gun this thing for me.

    By Charles Vernon
    From: Tucson, AZ
    Jun 5, 2012

    You don't need Gear. You just need to stop doing Voodoo Child so much and open your eyes to the other possibilities.

    Seriously, you should get on this John, it's great and well-protected, even though the geir is small. I laced it up.

    By Geir
    From: Tucson, AZ
    Jun 5, 2012

    If anyone wants to climb this with me just let me know.