Black Magic Woman 5.10+
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| Type: | Trad, 5 pitches, 600 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10+ [details] |
| FA: | EFR & Steve Amter, 1986 |
| Season: | spring summer fall |
| Submitted By: | Charles Vernon on Sep 24, 2011 |
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BETA PHOTO: Stolen from Voodoo Child page. The leader is on VC...
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Description Black Magic Woman is one pitch of superb slab and face that parallels Voodoo Child high on rappel rock. Strictly speaking, the route is one pitch, but you have to climb several pitches to get there. Like SQL II says, this is easier that VC but more sustained. The feet are also a little gritty-it probably doesn't get much traffic. It's still a great pitch. Unlike VC, you need geir and there is hard climbing, possibly even 5.10+ climbing, that is gear-protected.
From the shared belay with Voodoo Child, climb straight up the thin crack with tricky 5.10 moves and good gear. Clip into a pin (contrary to the SQL II topo, this pin comes before any of the bolts) and continue past 5 bolts with great cruxy moves and micro route-finding all over the place. The climbing finally eases as you near the 2-bolt anchor, which is also not shown on the SQL II topo.
From this anchor, one more pitch (5.8ish) straight up past two bolts and over a fun roof to the chickenheads leads to the top.
Location Begins from the 2-bolt anchor that marks the start of Voodoo Child's crux pitch. This anchor is hidden (i.e. not visible from the notch at the top of the Obituary Column) in a corner just to the left of P3 of Black Quacker, about 1/2 way up that pitch.
Protection A set of small cams and small-medium stoppers (including large rps) will give options for the initial 5.10 thin crack. From the piton henceforth, 6 draws is sufficient. The bolts are a bit spaced in places but there is nothing to hit.
| Comments on Black Magic Woman |
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By Charles Vernon
From: Florence, AZ
Sep 24, 2011
| I have misplaced SQL II and only remember that EFR did the route sometime in the '80s, but can't remember his partner. Maybe EFR could chime in, or I will update when I find the book. |
By JMayhew
From: Tucson, AZ
Sep 24, 2011
| SQL II says EFR and Steve Amter in 1986. For some reason I thought Bob Kerry was in on that, too, but EFR would know fer sure. (Never tried it in the snow!) |
By Steven Amter
Nov 23, 2011
| This is to confirm that Eric and I did the route in 1986. We considered it a nice variation to Voodoo Child which people tended to do over and over. |
By Jimbo
Nov 24, 2011
| Too bad it obscures the line of Voodoo Child. Just like EFR. |
By Charles Vernon
From: Florence, AZ
Jun 5, 2012
| Funny comments. I don't get the impression that people are doing Voodoo Child "over and over" anymore. |
By Hendrixson
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 5, 2012
| Amusing typo:
"Unlike VC, you need geir and there is hard climbing, possibly even 5.10+ climbing, that is gear-protected."
I probably would need Geir or another trad hard-man to rope gun this thing for me. |
By Charles Vernon
From: Florence, AZ
Jun 5, 2012
| You don't need Gear. You just need to stop doing Voodoo Child so much and open your eyes to the other possibilities.
Seriously, you should get on this John, it's great and well-protected, even though the geir is small. I laced it up. |
By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 5, 2012
| If anyone wants to climb this with me just let me know. |
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