Black Magic Woman 

This climb is awesome and should be a classic. Beautiful black and orange rock and great moves. As far as the slight runout on top goes, we were going to put a bolt there, but the rock is super hollow, thanks to the crack running behind it. Plus, there's a crack on the left (west) side of the arete, anyway. If you make it through the 5.11 crux, you're not going to fall at the top. But if you want some protection anyway, bring a finger-sized cam or nut. As far as the rating goes... we're not sure exactly. We're thinking 5.11c minimum. Any other comments on the grade would be much appreciated.

EDIT: A tall friend of ours did this climb and thought it was 5.11a, so maybe 5.11c is a bit harder than it actually is. I'll change the rating once we get more feedback.

I'm starting to think it is 5.11b but the guy who thought it was 11a is well over 6 feet tall! Still, when you hit the rad right hand side-pull, from the crappy arete pinch: you can't help but think "now that's fun!" The runnout at the top is really easy but a small/med. nut in the crack on the left would give you peace of mind.

Hey great route guys, I thought it was really fun. You can't blame Johnny too much for being a super tall kid :) I was wondering if you couldn't put a bolt on the left side of the flake on the top after you come around the arete? It would be a nasty fall if someone didn't have a rack.

We debated a lot over whether or not to put a bolt on top. We would have loved to put one higher up on the right side, but the right side of the arete near the top is really hollow, thanks to the crack running right behind it--it's just a giant flake. As for putting one on the left side like you recommended, that would mean putting the bolt right next to the crack, which is something neither Christian nor myself really want to make a habit of. If someone is really worried about that upper section, I think they've got the following choices: toprope the route, borrow a cam or nut, or go to Mountainworks and spend $15 on a nut. In my opinion, not having a rack or a piece does not justify bolting a crack.

Being lazy and weak, I found a different sequence through the crux that doesn't use the crappy pinch on the left arete. After initially trying the obvious sequence and falling off the left arete, and having watched a couple of others grunt through it, my method seemed a fair amount easier (although it's still strenuous and requires trusting itty-bitty feet).

In any event, come and get on this route before the key hold falls off (it's loose).

Which hold is loose?! The huge jug?

Yeah, the sidepull/undercling jug just before the crux is loose.

Well...it would still go without the huge jug. It will be more difficult though.

As of 4.28.09 the jug was there, but loose ~ I made sure to tread as lightly as possible. The sequence didn't quite come together for me, but after hang dogging it I'd agree with the 5.11b-ish/c-ish. I can see how being taller would be advantageous. Great line! As far as the run out on top...I did not think it was an issue, pulling onto the face is well protected by the last bolt and then b/c of the angle change, even if you arms are pumped, the feet are solid and allow for easy climbing - giving way to the anchor.

I TRed it the other day and tested out the jug...I yanked and pulled as hard as I could and it's not coming out for a while. I guess we could go and glue it but I'm not worried about it for a long time.

The top of this is pretty run out. I climbed to the right and then just leaned over the top and clipped, then threw the rope around to get lowered off. Might have been able to climb directly to the chains, but i thought it was safer going to the right.

Awesome climb!! Definitely one of my favorites in the canyon. It is heavily overrated though. There is really one hard move and if you gaston left hand toe hook the edge and bump your right hand from the climp to the edge of the flake it is maybe a 10d move (see beta photo above), I have a fairly big ape index though so it may be harder for shorter climber. -Awesome climb though!

When we did it, we didn't use the right edge or any holds around the left side. Using either of those might very well make it easier. Rate it however you climb it!

@Taylor: It's not runout if you bring a nut or cam for the crack, like it says in the beta.

Super fun climb. Love the extension out to the arete. Some BETA: Clip the third bolt from the side pull before the arete with high feet, otherwise you may be in for a little decking action. After coming out of the arete you are home free. Last little bit is run out but there is a nice crack to follow to the shared chains.

Fun feature to climb, but not very sustained. Basically one tough move and you're home free. Very drawn out to the chains but sounds like that is in the process of being resolved. Definitely worth doing once.

I must have walked passed this route a 100 times, so i finally decided to give it a go. The harder moves are well protected, the easier moves not so much. This is a climb for a cold day and defiantly worth doing. Short and sweet...

Admittedly, I'm pretty tall, but I made a big reach from the jug to the right side by means of a layback and toe hook on the right edge. It took me a few tries, but I made it. I'll have to go back and try the crappy pinch because I may have made it harder than it needed to be.