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Piedra River - Lower West
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Unsorted Routes:

Black Magic Spell 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c

   
Type: Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Alex Scott & Rich Strang
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,538
Submitted By: Pullhard on Jul 4, 2011
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The thin face eases towards the top & becomes fun ...

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Description 

This is a mixed gear route. Begin the climb at "Smokin' Stems." Clip a piton and place gear to protect the steep start, then follow the bolts up and right. It is good climbing on a beautiful, black face.


Location 

See the photo to the right and beta photo for "Smokin' Stems."


Protection 

Piton, a couple cams, and perhaps a nut protect the start before the first bolt. 7 bolts to 2 bolt anchor. Probably best to clean the route on top rope, then rap from chains.



Photos of Black Magic Spell Slideshow Add Photo
Moving out of the shadows to the "Clean Face" of Black Magic Spell (5.11).
Moving out of the shadows to the "Clean Face" of B...
Alex Scott in the middle of the Awesome black face. <br />Black Magic Spell (5.11).
Alex Scott in the middle of the Awesome black face...
View walking upstream. The route starts in the overhanging corner/crack to the left of the dashed line then climbs diagonally right up the smooth black face. <br />KILLER!
BETA PHOTO: View walking upstream. The route starts in the ove...
The "Thin Stuff" begins <br />Black Magic Spell (5.11).
The "Thin Stuff" begins
Black Magic Spell (5.11).
Andy Albosta follows the 3rd ascent. <br />Black Magic Spell (5.11).
Andy Albosta follows the 3rd ascent.
Black Magic S...
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By Rstrang
From: Santa Fe, NM
Jul 5, 2011
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c

I definitely needed some MAGIC to unlock the the crux. Pretty varied movements and suprisingly continuous.

By s.price
From: PS,CO
Jul 27, 2011
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c

Fun moves to a great finish. I'd go 4 stars, but IMO the shared start doesn't allow for 4 stars.

2013 edit: This route is 4 stars regardless of the shared start. One of the best in the canyon. IMO has changed.

By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Aug 11, 2011
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

We only climbed five routes at PR on our recent visit, and this one was by far my favorite. Bouldery, gear protected start to super fun moves on stellar rock to the top. Kudos.