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Piedra River - Lower West
Routes Sorted
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Black  S 
Black Beauty S 
Black Magic Spell T,S 
Cattle Drive S 
Chocolate Corner T 
Deuce S 
Different Strokes S 
Emotionally Involved S 
F***in' Greenies S 
First Wall S 
Full Body Brace T 
Giggin TR 
Golden Seam S 
Graffiti Wall 
Hollow Excuse S 
Hopstacle Course S 
Huggy Bear 
I & Eye S 
Jammers Kant T 
Lightning Crashes S 
Main Traverse 
Main Traverse 2.0 
Mild Hops S 
Nescafe S 
Nick & Todd TR 
Noodle Wall TR 
November Reign S 
Practice Wall TR 
Raising Awareness S 
Rave Mode S 
Refuse To Suffer S 
Ruled By Force S 
Silver S 
Smokin' Stems T 
Solo Slab TR 
Southern Cross S 
Tan S 
Taster's Choice S 
Thunder Will S 
Trigger TR 
Unknown 2 T,S 
Van Gogh's S 
Wild Hops S 
Winning Streak S 
Unsorted Routes:

Black Magic Spell 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Alex Scott & Rich Strang
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,707
Submitted By: Pullhard on Jul 4, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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The thin face eases towards the top & becomes fun ...


This is a mixed gear route. Begin the climb at "Smokin' Stems." Clip a piton and place gear to protect the steep start, then follow the bolts up and right. It is good climbing on a beautiful, black face.


See the photo to the right and beta photo for "Smokin' Stems."


Piton, a couple cams, and perhaps a nut protect the start before the first bolt. 7 bolts to 2 bolt anchor. Probably best to clean the route on top rope, then rap from chains.

Photos of Black Magic Spell Slideshow Add Photo
Moving out of the shadows to the "Clean Face" of Black Magic Spell (5.11).
Moving out of the shadows to the "Clean Face&...
Alex Scott in the middle of the Awesome black face. <br />Black Magic Spell (5.11).
Alex Scott in the middle of the Awesome black face...
View walking upstream. The route starts in the overhanging corner/crack to the left of the dashed line then climbs diagonally right up the smooth black face. <br />KILLER!
BETA PHOTO: View walking upstream. The route starts in the ove...
The "Thin Stuff" begins <br />Black Magic Spell (5.11).
The "Thin Stuff" begins Black Magic Spel...
Andy Albosta follows the 3rd ascent. <br />Black Magic Spell (5.11).
Andy Albosta follows the 3rd ascent. Black Magic S...

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By Rstrang
From: Santa Fe, NM
Jul 5, 2011
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

I definitely needed some MAGIC to unlock the the crux. Pretty varied movements and suprisingly continuous.
By s.price
From: PS,CO
Jul 27, 2011
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

Fun moves to a great finish. I'd go 4 stars, but IMO the shared start doesn't allow for 4 stars.

2013 edit: This route is 4 stars regardless of the shared start. One of the best in the canyon. IMO has changed.
By Jason Halladay
From: Los Alamos, NM
Aug 11, 2011
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

We only climbed five routes at PR on our recent visit, and this one was by far my favorite. Bouldery, gear protected start to super fun moves on stellar rock to the top. Kudos.