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Coyote Crag
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Black Magic Poodle 
Bye Crackie 
Coyotes at Sunset 
Eight Second Ride 
Es Muy Bueno 
Golden Poodle 
Golden Spike 
High Noon 
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Red Brewster 
Saddle Tramp 
Western Farm Service 

Black Magic Poodle 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Chris Miller and Loren Scott, June 1997
Season: All year (depending upon snowfall)
Page Views: 2,625
Submitted By: C Miller on Mar 12, 2006
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Rob S. high on Black Magic Poodle (5.9), Holcomb V...

Description 

Begin this route by climbing a wedged log until possible to grab some holds and pull onto the rock. Once on the rock climb up to a bulge which can be pulled directly or slightly to the left (easier). Higher, interesting face climbing on good holds leads to a steep finish with amazingly good holds. The route ends at a bolted anchor just where the angle starts to kicks back.

Lots of fun climbing on this with a few tricky moves down low and a slightly pumpy finish on incut holds.


Location 

This is the left-most climb on the crag, is located just left of the route Golden Spike and easily indentified by the log wedged against the face.


Protection 

8 bolts, bolted anchor/rap



Photos of Black Magic Poodle Slideshow Add Photo
Black Magic Poodle (5.9), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
BETA PHOTO: Black Magic Poodle (5.9), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
Chris leads up Black Magic Poodle.
Chris leads up Black Magic Poodle.
Midway up Black Magic Poodle (5.9).
Midway up Black Magic Poodle (5.9).
Unknown climber on Black Magic Poodle (5.9), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles.
Unknown climber on Black Magic Poodle (5.9), Holco...
Mike obviously having a good time.
Mike obviously having a good time.
Chris clipping, near the top of Black Magic Poodle.
Chris clipping, near the top of Black Magic Poodle...
Mike Newheart climbing.
Mike Newheart climbing.
The chopped bolt from the tree that used to be in front of BMP.
The chopped bolt from the tree that used to be in ...
Comments on Black Magic Poodle Add Comment
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By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Mar 19, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

Fun, steep, positive and highly recommended. Crux maybe exiting the first bolt, but a pump crux awaits those who take the grade for granted. Make extra sure to watch out for the wild poodles that have wandered in from JTree to the base of this climb, along with the unprotected tree trunk moves before the first clip.

By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jun 16, 2007

Definitely a fun route. The opening slab moves (of the tree trunk) are quite slick; I think we need to knock an old piton into the wood. One o' these days the trunk will rot away and the climb will get a lot harder. ;-)

By Rick Shull
Administrator
From: Arcata, CA & Dyer,NV
Jun 17, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

There was once a bolt on the log. It must have been chopped.

By Jeff Scofield
From: Yorba Linda, CA
May 14, 2012

I'm a big fan of bolts to prevent a ground fall but the log is so low off the ground it wouldn't do anything. A fall would still be to the ground...

By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Aug 3, 2013
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b

It's been a few years since I've been on this route and the log is now gone. I honestly don't recall the sequence using (or not using) the log before but found the opening moves to be amazingly awkward today. So much so I came back down and started again. I tried direct but didn't want to creep over right to the neighboring route. Ultimately, I ended up steaming to the wall on the left, I'm certain that's not the way to do it, but once I got going that's what seemed most natural.

I'd be curious to see how others view the opening moves. Don't think it changes the rating but stumped me for sure.