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Black Line Buttress
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Black Line - Directest Finish T 
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Black Line - Directest Finish 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Trevor Bowman and Pat Kingsbury July 2008
New Route: Yes
Season: spring-fall
Page Views: 600
Submitted By: Trevor Bowman on Jul 29, 2008

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Description 

This great new variation to one of the most classic crack lines of the canyon adds a nice "sting in the tail" finish that maximizes the pump. Climb the standard Blackline to the point of the "5.7 traverse", instead of cutting right to either of the standard finishes (original 5.7 crack or direct 5.9 with the bolt) crimp directly up and slightly left over a small bulge and up parallel right-leaning seams. Sidepull and crimp your way up these to the crux last move right (look for a key mono) into the very top of the dihedral on the 5.9 finish and clip the chains. This makes for a great addition to this classic line, but the protection is not very straightforward. It would be a tricky onsight, and may be most enjoyable as a TR.

Location 

The most direct (directest) line up to the chains on Blackline. Lies about 7' left of the Direct Finish (5.9).

Protection 

With offset TCUs, this protects well, but it would be quite spicy without them. Bring a purple/blue Met. offset, black/blue and blue/green Alien offsets, RPs. A bomber #2 cam can be placed in the upper part of Blackline before pulling the small bulge.


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