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Black Line - Directest Finish
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3.6 from 9
votes
Routes in Black Line Buttress
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Alto Ray T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Baby Moose T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Black Line T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Black Line - Directest Finish T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Blue Dream T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Callis' Warts and Corns T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Crossroads T 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a PG13 |
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Cut Throat S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Diesel Driver T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Fakir T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Fringe Benefits T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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If Peterbilts Could Prance T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13 |
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If Pleiades Could Dance T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Just Effacin' the Crowd T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Kabooki Direct T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Lacy Panties T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Mark of Zorro, The T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Mirror Image T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Rambo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Raven's Roost T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Rooter's T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Sour Diesel T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a X |
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Thintucky T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Unnamed T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, 110 ft (33 m) |
| FA: | Trevor Bowman and Pat Kingsbury July 2008 |
| Page Views: | 2,106 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Trevor Bowman on Jul 29, 2008 |
| Admins: | GRK, Zach Wahrer |
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Description
This great new variation to one of the most classic crack lines of the canyon adds a nice "sting in the tail" finish that maximizes the pump. Climb the standard Blackline to the point of the "5.7 traverse", instead of cutting right to either of the standard finishes (original 5.7 crack or direct 5.9 with the bolt) crimp directly up and slightly left over a small bulge and up parallel right-leaning seams. Sidepull and crimp your way up these to the crux last move right (look for a key mono) into the very top of the dihedral on the 5.9 finish and clip the chains. This makes for a great addition to this classic line, but the protection is not very straightforward. It would be a tricky onsight, and may be most enjoyable as a TR.
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