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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Black-Jones Direct 
Bowling Alley- aka Durrance approach route 
Centennial 
Direct Southwest 
Double-Edged Blade 
Durrance 
Fritz's Fantasy 
interesting problem below, The 
Late for Dinner 
Liken Lichen 
Lovely Liana 
Manifest Destiny 
P.O.T.C. 
Pseudo- Wiessner 
Rangers Are People Too 
Sundance 
Wiessner 

Black-Jones Direct 

5.11b

   
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Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 120 feet
Consensus: 5.11b [details]
FA: Unknown FFA Steve Jones, Carol Black 7/7/79
Submitted By: Trevor Bowman on May 28, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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North Face of Devils Tower is temporarily closed for falcons, AND has a voluntary closure each June. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A steep, clean fingercrack in a dihedral with a short thin section requiring tip-locks or a big reach. The walls of the corner are smooth and largely devoid of features, making for some committing stemming. At about 2/3 height, Manifest Destiny traverses into this corner and the crack widens to fists with some chockstone moves interspersed. This line doesn't seem to receive much traffic, but stays surprisingly clean.


Location 

Between POTC and Manifest Destiny on the right side of the SW face. Two cracks left of the Leaning Column on Durrance.


Protection 

Finger cams (blue-orange TCU with emphasis on yellow) and stoppers. 2 #3 camalots and maybe a new #4 for the top wider bit.



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By Sean Nelb
From: Devils Tower, WY
May 10, 2011

This route and the ones around it have morning shade. The routes here, Lovely Liana, POTC, Black-Jones, and Manifest Destiny are all close together, can be gotten off of with a single 70 m rope and some 4th class downclimbing, never have traffic, and are high quality. Hang out with the folks lining up for Durrance and make them jealous as you climb pitch after pitch while they sit around.