Black-Jones Direct 5.11b
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 120 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11b [details] |
| FA: | Unknown FFA Steve Jones, Carol Black 7/7/79 |
| Submitted By: | Trevor Bowman on May 28, 2009 |
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North Face of Devils Tower is temporarily closed for falcons, AND has a voluntary closure each June. MORE INFO >>>
5/31/2013 The NPS has announced that the North Face of Devil's Tower is temporarily closed for nesting prairie falcons until further notice. Separate from the falcon closure, Devils Tower National Monument has a voluntary climbing closure in effect for the month of June, out of respect for American Indian cultural traditions. For further information on climbing closures, please see www.nps.gov/ns/deto/planyourvisit/junevoluntaryclosure.htm For general climbing information please contact the Devils Tower Climbing Office at 307-467-5283, ext. 632.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description A steep, clean fingercrack in a dihedral with a short thin section requiring tip-locks or a big reach. The walls of the corner are smooth and largely devoid of features, making for some committing stemming. At about 2/3 height, Manifest Destiny traverses into this corner and the crack widens to fists with some chockstone moves interspersed. This line doesn't seem to receive much traffic, but stays surprisingly clean.
Location Between POTC and Manifest Destiny on the right side of the SW face. Two cracks left of the Leaning Column on Durrance.
Protection Finger cams (blue-orange TCU with emphasis on yellow) and stoppers. 2 #3 camalots and maybe a new #4 for the top wider bit.
| Comments on Black-Jones Direct |
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By Sean Nelb From: Devils Tower, WY May 10, 2011
| This route and the ones around it have morning shade. The routes here, Lovely Liana, POTC, Black-Jones, and Manifest Destiny are all close together, can be gotten off of with a single 70 m rope and some 4th class downclimbing, never have traffic, and are high quality. Hang out with the folks lining up for Durrance and make them jealous as you climb pitch after pitch while they sit around. |
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