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 ADVANCED
The Black Jack Boulder
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Black Jack Crack T 
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Black Jack Crack 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b Hueco: V2 Font: 5+

   
Type:  Trad, Boulder, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b Hueco: V2 Font: 5+ [details]
FA: Chuck Fisher, 1974
Page Views: 5,278
Submitted By: Jay Knower on Dec 20, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (26)
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Maryne showing everyone how to properly handjam.
Part of This area is on Private Property MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Black Jack Crack is the best trad route at Rumney. Never mind that some people boulder the thing.

Locate the 30 foot tall splitter crack on the west face of the huge boulder. Follow the crack through various sizes to a crux at the top. Though it receives a boulder rating of V2, most people prefer to bring gear rather than face the offensive possibilty of a 30 foot grounder at the crux.


Protection 

The route is well protected with small to medium cams. If you should choose to boulder it, bring as many pads as you can find, and for the love of God, don't fall.



Photos of Black Jack Crack Slideshow Add Photo
me on bjc...photo by lee hansche editing by me
me on bjc...photo by lee hansche editing by me
Rich looking strong on the finishing moves of blackjack.
Rich looking strong on the finishing moves of blac...
Mike topping out after a good first go on BJC...
Mike topping out after a good first go on BJC...
Black Jack Crack
Black Jack Crack
climbing black jack via headlamp.
climbing black jack via headlamp.
Tyler cruising the top
Tyler cruising the top
rachet climbing the BJC...
rachet climbing the BJC...
getting toward the top... but cant relax yet...
getting toward the top... but cant relax yet...
Black Jack Crack
Black Jack Crack
Chris Deulen being watched by Bill Morse near the top of Black Jack Crack.
Chris Deulen being watched by Bill Morse near the ...
Tyler on Blackjack Crack
Tyler on Blackjack Crack
one more of mike following BJC
one more of mike following BJC
mike following BJC
mike following BJC
Comments on Black Jack Crack Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 30, 2013
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jan 10, 2007

This is one of the best routes at Rumney in my opinion...I climbed it at least 30 times this year...if you love cracks you'll love this route....

By E thatcher
From: Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
Sep 21, 2009

The gear is so fricken good on this thing that it's a sport climb if you know anything about placing cams. Also if you have cams a TR is wicked easy to set up, believe we usually use #'s 1-3 and extend the bol out left to keep the rope out of the crack. And for a fun variation, its an even sweater climb without using any crimp, just straight up crack!

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Oct 19, 2009

Led it on just nuts for kicks today... made it interesting...

By Patrick Feeney
From: hartland vt
Jun 6, 2010

i have been past this boulder many times.now that i have a nut set.is there good placement for using nuts

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jun 8, 2010

i have done it on just nuts but cams are very helpful for sure...

By GabeO
From: Denver, CO
Jun 13, 2011

What size? Pretty thin? Looks like it gets wider near the top?

GO

By Dom
Administrator
From: New Brunswick Canada
Apr 10, 2012

Rack from 0.3 to #2 with doubles in 0.4 and 0.75 will suffice. The #1 and #2 are for the gear anchor but other sizes would work (Lots of gear on top).

Medium to large nuts would also work in that crack.

By Eric Chabot
From: Thetford Ctr, VT
Aug 12, 2013

At Rumney, there is nothing splitterer.

doubles not needed IMHO. Single rack from .3 - 2 plus nuts will sew this puppy up. Can use #3 for the anchor.

By Matt Glue
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 30, 2013

If it were twice as long, it would be known throughout the country. As is, it's a Northeast classic. If you have a rack of cams and are at Rumney, just do this.

By JayMorse
From: Hooksett, New Hampshire
Oct 12, 2013

There is a pretty easy scramble to the top of this boulder on the back side. There is no bolt on top, but there are some great placements to build a trad anchor up there if you want to TR. Bring some extra cord/webbing to extend it, and maybe something to protect your cord/webbing over the edge!

Can't wait to try it on lead, but I need to work on my crack technique first. It's a tough route!

By MLevine
From: Nashua, NH
Oct 30, 2013

Damn this crack is awesome. Can't get it out of my head....