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Black Jack Boulders

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Beginners Area 
Behind Zig Zag Boulder 
Black Jack Boulder, The 
Block, The 
Blue Flag Trail Boulder 
Dill Boulder, The 
Entrance Boulders 
Fisher Block, The 
Headstone Boulder 
Inverted Boulder 
Long Slab Boulder 
Moat Boulder, The 
New Age Block 
Ricochet Boulder, The 
Spragueasorus Boulder (aka Underworld Boulder) 
Twin Boulders, The 
Umbrella Boulder, The 
West Black Jack  
Zig Zag Boulder, The 

Black Jack Boulders 


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Page Views: 113,445
Administrators: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Jay Knower on Dec 19, 2006
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looking down on the black jacks from up high
Part of This area is on Private Property MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Scattered in the woods at the base of the hill, the Black Jack boulders offer some classic problems on great stone. The boulders start near the road and extend uphill almost to Waimea.

This area is complex as boulders lean upon boulders and caves abound. Take some time and explore this area and you will surely find some hidden classics as well as some first ascent potential. Must do problems include, but are not limited to: Zig Zag Crack V1, Umbrella Traverse V2, Black Jack Crack V2x, Spraguesorus V5, Pyramid Power V7, Satan on a Halfshell V10, and Satan's Choice V11.

The Black Jacks can be blissful on dry winter days, or torturous in the heat of summer. Since most of the boulders sit on or near lowlying marsh land, bug season arrives with a vengence in the Black Jacks.


Getting There 

Park in the lot. DO NOT PARK ALONG THE ROAD. Walk along the road single file to telephone pole 37 and follow a well-worn trail uphill into the woods. At the first big boulder you see, follow the trail left, through the Black Jacks.
Or better yet, follow the graded path path from the small parking lot and take the Short Cut trail traversing the hillside west from the top of the wooden staircase leading to the left side of the Main Cliff. Once past the midway boulder, don't head up the hill like going to Bonsai, but continue straight, under Monsters until you reach the Blackjack's Entrance boulder. This is only 5 minutes more and keeps you off the road, keeping the locals happy and you not run over. Plus you go by more great bouldering.


120 Total Routes


['4 Stars',7],['3 Stars',28],['2 Stars',58],['1 Star',24],['Bomb',2]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',0],['5.10',2],['5.11',2],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',31],['V2-3',50],['V4-5',13],['V6-7',10],['V8-9',7],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',5],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Black Jack Boulders:
Zig Zag Crack   V1 5     Boulder   The Zig Zag Boulder
Moose Tracks   V2 5+     Boulder   The Zig Zag Boulder
The Umbrella Traverse   V2 5+     Boulder, 15'   The Umbrella Boulder
Pass the Ammunition   V2+ 5+     Boulder, 8'   The Ricochet Boulder
Firestarter   V3 6A     Boulder   The Moat Boulder
Diagonal   V3 6A     Boulder, 16'   The Zig Zag Boulder
Up Into The Green Silence   V4 6B     Boulder, 14'   The Fisher Block
Inverted Siberian Husky   V5 6C     Boulder, 20'   Inverted Boulder
Spraqueasorus   V5+ 6C+     Boulder, 15'   Spragueasorus Boulder (aka ...
Heartless B!&ch   V6 7A     Boulder, 15'   Beginners Area
Knock Your Block Off    V6 7A     Boulder   The Block
Fisher Fissure   V6 7A     Boulder, 12'   The Fisher Block
Child Prodigy   V6 7A     Boulder   The Moat Boulder
3 Speed on Vinyl   V7-8 7B     Boulder, 12'   The Fisher Block
Bobby's Problem   V8 7B     Boulder, 18'   Entrance Boulders
Pyramid Power   V8 7B     Boulder   Spragueasorus Boulder (aka ...
The Block Problem   V9 7C     Boulder, 12'   The Block
Satan's Sister Sally   V10 7C+     Boulder   The Umbrella Boulder
Satan on a Halfshell   V10 7C+     Boulder   The Umbrella Boulder
Black Jack Crack   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b V2 5+     Trad, Boulder, 1 pitch, 30'   The Black Jack Boulder
Browse More Classics in Black Jack Boulders

Featured Route For Black Jack Boulders
The Problem

Spraqueasorus V5+ 6C+  NH : Rumney : ... : Spragueasorus Boulder (aka ...
Ouch!Crimp and power your way up this demanding face using deadpoints and precise feet. The topout is huge (thank the goddess)Way Hard for the grade(hence the V5+)...[more]   Browse More Classics in NH

Photos of Black Jack Boulders Slideshow Add Photo
Heading to blackjack during a winter session. <br /> <br />Blackjack is a great winter bouldering spot.
Heading to blackjack during a winter session.

Bla...
Mike shoveling out a problem during the early season.
Mike shoveling out a problem during the early seas...
Comments on Black Jack Boulders Add Comment
Show which comments
By Lanky
From: Portland, ME
Aug 22, 2008

Any reason the Blackjack's are divided up by specific boulder instead of considering the whole area one... um, area?

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Aug 22, 2008

it might have started because the Black Jack Boulder is like a mini crag... but i think it makes sense to break it down, makes it easy to navigate... would be great if someone would make a map of the boulders...

By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Dec 15, 2008

I think it is divided up because it is much easier to navigate, if you look at how the pound is set up it is confusing to figure out where some of the problems are, it would be really nice if the pound was split up by boulders.

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Jun 6, 2010

To approach the BlackJacks it is better to take the Shortcut Trail than to walk along the road. That helps avoid friction with drivers on the small road. It is only slightly longer time wise and it also takes you right by the awesome boulders below Monsters. Take the main trail from the small parking lot running west parallel to the road (lots of boulders on the hillside above, below the Main cliff), and head up the wooden staircase like you are going to Armed and Dangerous. Break left before you get there following the blue flags and traverse the hillside above the 5.8 crag and below Monsters. The trail will pop you out right at the Entrance boulder at the beginning of the Blackjacks.

If you follow the trail uphill before you get to Monsters, you will come to the cool overhanging bouldering ledges to the left (along the trial from Venus), or go left there to the boulders above Monsters

By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Dec 20, 2010

Here are some video I found of Black Jack Bouldering, Enjoy!

www.youtube.com/user/niceporch#p/u/6/cZtOyCe4i5A

www.youtube.com/user/niceporch#p/u/7/zLt0pa0HRBU

www.youtube.com/user/niceporch#p/u/27/n3BGi9GKweg

Rumney has some great bouldering that I personally dont think gets enough credit!

By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Dec 23, 2010

For everyone who likes to winter boulder in Black Jack, I left a broom in the cave/hole to the right of the Umbrella Boulder. I plan on leaving it there for the duration of the winter and you are more than welcome to use it. I just ask that if you use it try not to break it and please put it back when you are done with it. Happy sending :)